Golden Century Seafood Restaurant, Sussex St, Sydney

Golden Century Seafood Restaurant, Sussex St, Sydney
Wednesday 31 May, 2006

Tonight was a special occasion - an opportunity to introduce Rick & Kirsty to some of my favourite dishes from China. Being the food enthusiast that I am I had talked up some of the dishes (and re-assured them I wouldn't order dog) and come prepared with my food list along with their Chinese translations.

Golden Century is always packed and was awarded One chef's hat by the Sydney Morning Herald at the Good Food Guide Awards 2006. It's recommended you make a booking and sit upstairs which is away from the crowds and queues downstairs. It continually amazes me how many people are milling around the entrance waiting for tables (especially as the restaurant has capacity for 600 guests) and it is very satisfying to walk past this crowd and take the escalator upstairs to find your table ready.

Tonight we had a wonderful waiter who was more than happy to accommodate my list of meals and discuss my recent trip to China. I loved the way he took one look at my list and immediately confirmed each dish - many of which were not listed on their menu. As Rick & Kirsty were trying some of these dishes for the first time, we also ordered some of their favourite dishes......just in case. We ordered a feast of:

- Cucumber & garlic (slices of garlic with chopped up garlic and oil - served cold). This is a fantastic starter that is light and refreshing.
- San Choy Bow (minced pork, garlic, water chestnuts and vegetables served in lettuce leaves)
- Grandmother's beancurd (silken tofu, minced meat and chilli)
- Salt & pepper squid
- Chilli chicken (chicken pieces, zucchini and chilli)

To their credit they tried each and every dish and we all agreed hands down that the best dish was the Cucumber and garlic. I guess this proves the theory that you should keep it simple.

Golden Century Seafood Restaurant - 393 Sussex St, Sydney - (02) 9212 3901

http://www.goldencentury.com.au/

MOS Cafe, Bridge St, Sydney

MOS Cafe, Bridge St, Sydney
Wednesday 31 May, 2006

Here's some interesting facts for you....The Museum of Sydney is built on the ruins of the house of Australia's first governor-general, Governor Phillip. The original house, which was Australia's first Government House, was built in 1788 and exposed by archaeologists in the 1980s. The Museum of Sydney opened in 1995.

For a first time visitor to the MOS the first thing you will notice is the massive art work in the front forecourt entitled, Edge of the Trees Sculpture. The MOS explanation of this piece is, 'From the edge of the trees the Cadigal people watched as the strangers of the First Fleet struggled ashore in 1788. We can only imagine what their thoughts would have been. This sculptural installation by Janet Laurence and Fiona Foley symbolises that first encounter. Richly embedded with materials and language, the sculpture evokes layers of memory, people and place.' To my untrained eyes it just looks like a series of telephone phone poles without the wires, however it is a good talking point.

I love visiting the MOS shop, it offers some really quirky books showcasing cities from all over the world e.g. Best Restaurants, Hip Bars, Unique Hotels; jewellery, cards & postcards etc. It's the perfect place to visit for gifts or to browse through before meeting friends for lunch at the cafe next door.

The cafe interior offers exposed sandstone, a slate floor, a large communal table made from red gum and scattered tables and chairs throughout. It's dimly lit inside and you can choose to sit inside, in the colonade or out on the forecourt area overlooking the sculpture.

Today was lunch with some old work buddies. We were provided with menus and our drink orders were taken promptly. The menu comprises a selection of pastas, fish & chips, steaks, salads etc and many are offered in entree and main servings. They also have daily specials which comprise a main meal with bread & beverage (beer or wine) for approx. $25.

Like most catch up lunches we were too busy talking to look at our menus and were approached twice by a staff member. On the second approach, we decided to order something hearty as it was cold and miserable outside. Two of us went for the tomato, goats cheese and spinach lasagna with rosemary and parmesan and our other lunch buddy selected the pasta with atlantic salmon, semi sundried tomatoes, pine nuts, olive oil and rocket.

The meals were surprising good and the servings were just right - not ridiculously large so you had no hope of getting through it and not too small that you were left craving more. We all enjoyed our meals however for $35 per person including drinks and coffee it's not somewhere you would go regularly.

MOS Cafe - Bridge St, Sydney - (02) 9251 5988

http://www.hht.net.au/museums/
museum_of_sydney/museum_of_sydney

Burger Bar, Bridge St, Sydney

Burger Bar, Bridge St, Sydney
Tuesday 30 May, 200

Forgive me for I have sinned. It's been three says since my last entry and I was reminded of this fact by a good friend of mine (you know who you are!) who was sick of reading about My Little Cupcake. So I am playing catch up.

Today was lunch at the Burger Bar - it's become a regular haunt of mine since I was introduced to it at the end of last year. The burgers are great, it is very clean, offers minimal but comfortable seating and the staff are really helpful and offer very good service. However, it's a shame about the location - it's hidden amongst the takeaway food places in a small arcade down some steps from Bridge St. On the other hand, maybe that's a good thing....it won't be inundated with new patrons so us regulars can always get a seat!

The menu offerings are very tempting and you order at the bar before receiving a table number. The selections are extensive - approx. 15 different burgers and a range of other meals e.g salads, fajitas etc (for the burger-phobes). Whilst I intend to try a different burger each time I visit, I keep returning to the Chilli beef - 100% premium beef, fresh tomato, jalapeno sauce, iceberg lettuce and avocado sour cream dressing. For approx $10 you can have a burger & fries which on a cold winter day is very hearty and satisfying.

The Burger Bar philosophy is fresh, delicious food made to order. Their menu states, 'All beef patties are made from 100% premium low fat beef. Our burgers are served on a large gourmet bread roll with Burger bar mayo and crisp fresh lettuce plus any nominated sauces and relishes. Our chicken breast is chemical and hormone free'.

Our burgers were delivered promptly and were very tasty. The staff are always really pleasant, happy to chat and clear & clean the tables immediately. This I really appreciate as there is nothing worse than entering a cafe/ restaurant and seeing tables of dirty plates.

The Burger Bar is a real find.

Burger Bar - Lower Ground Floor, 2 Bridge St, Sydney - (02) 9247 0555

My Little Cupcake, Ben Boyd Rd, Neutral Bay

My Little Cupcake, Ben Boyd Rd, Neutral Bay
Saturday 27 May, 2006

I discovered this little gem about two months ago. It's located on an isolated stretch of Ben Boyd Rd with no other shops around, just residential homes and apartments. It's a gorgeous, inviting space decorated in pastel colours with large glass floor to ceiling windows at the entrance. For a first time visitor it's an exciting place to enter.

The shop is set up with gifts, homewares, lampshades and original artwork at the front. Everything is original and exclusive to My Little Cupcake. It's fun to browse around the store before making your way to the rear and, in my opinion, the main attraction - the cupcakes.

The cupcakes are freshly baked on the premises in the commercial kitchen out the back and come in a range of sizes. All the cupcakes come with thick pastel frosting in a range of colours and are beautifully decorated with small flowers on top. The mini cupcakes are adorable and the large cupcakes are, well a challenge. I'm afraid my eyes were bigger than my belly as I purchased two large cupcakes and couldn't even finish one. The cupcake was light and fluffy and the frosting was delicious however, the large cupcakes are meals. Next time I visit I'll be ordering a mini cupcake.

My Little Cupcake also cater for Birthdays, Christenings, Baby Showers, Weddings or any special occasion and offer great deals for functions. Today, they had a numbering of boxes waiting to be collected for functions and the staff were more than happy to show off the boxes of 36 and 72 cupcakes. Wow!

My Little Cupcake - 62 Ben Boyd Rd, Neutral Bay - (02) 9909 3908

http://www.mylittlecupcake.com.au/index2.htm

Jackson's on George, George St, Sydney

Jackson's on George, George St, Sydney
Thursday 25 May, 2006

I haven't visited Jackson's on George since I was under-age trying to sneak into the nightclub upstairs. Today, was lunch with some work buddies and yes, we are all over-age now!

Jackson's is owned by the J & J O'Brien Group, who also own and manage the Malborough Hotel and Jorden's Seafood Restaurant among others. The location is directly opposite the Four Seasons Hotel on George Street and Jackson's has seating outside as well as huge doors that open up to bring the outside inside. We decided to sit inside facing George St so we could watch the world go by.

As we entered, there were some workmen finishing off some repairs to the banisters, so with drills blazing we sat down and hoped they would give it a rest sooner rather than later. There are menus on the table and you order & pay at the bar. The menus cover a wide range of lunch options - burgers, wraps, salads, pizzas, pastas and meat dishes.

I opted for the chargrilled steak with garlic mash & salad and my work buddies selected the combination paella and lamb shanks. We were provided with a table number and the meals were delivered within 15 minutes. Another staff member arrived at the table to offer cracked pepper which seemed odd as you have to go to the bar to order drinks and food. The food was pretty average - the paella was a little dry, the lamb shanks were not cooked through and the meat did not fall off the bone as expected and the steak was OK.

When the wine was delivered our waitress held the glasses by the top instead of the stem - this is a pet peeve of mine and should never happen.

Jackson's is an average experience.

Jackson's on George - 176 George St, Sydney - (02)9247 2727

http://www.jacksonsongeorge.com.au/index2.html

No Ordinary Cafe, Penshurst Street, Willoughby

No Ordinary Cafe, Penshurst Street, Willoughby
Tuesday 23 May, 2006

The sign out the front says 'Great coffee, good food and friendly staff' but I think the only thing the folk at No Ordinary Cafe can claim is false advertising.

I have driven past this place a thousand times and wondered what it was like - a local cafe next to a newsagent. It's an interesting setup. As you enter the cafe there are some tables and chairs scattered near the front with an open kitchen in the middle and more seating at the rear with a kids play area and then a courtyard at the back. The kitchen in the centre of the cafe makes for a noisy, distracting centrepiece, with plates being stacked, staff chatting etc.

We sat at the rear of the cafe and there were already menus on the table. When a staff member finally approached to take our order he was distracted by another staff member and proceeded to have a conversation with them over our table. As we looked at them in amusement, they were oblivious to us and the fact we may have wanted to order some breakfast.

When he finally finished his conversation and asked for our order we ordered coffee, juice and I queried what the Eggs Florentine was. 'Don't know' came the reply. I explained that I would like to know how it was prepared and he said 'do you want me to go to the kitchen to ask?' Gee, how about some service???

The cafe soon filled up with Mums and kids, which on a week day morning was a little too much to deal with. The food arrived and the eggs benedict with leg ham was swimming in hollandaise. It was OK, but I could have done with a quarter of the hollandaise. The large muffin was not toasted through and the leg ham was uncooked, so overall it was a very average eggs benedict.

The juices were great - freshly squeezed and a variety on offer and the coffee was OK. No Ordinary Cafe would be more appropriately titled Ordinary Cafe.

No Ordinary Cafe - 83 Penshurst Street, Willoughby - (02) 9967 5011

Va Bene, Xintiandi, Taicang Rd, Shanghai

Va Bene, Xintiandi, Taicang Rd, Shanghai
Thursday 18 May, 2006

Va Bene is located in one of the gorgeous laneways that makes Xintiandi a maze of shops and restaurants. It opened in October 2001 and was voted Shanghai's top restaurant in 2002. It is part of the Va Bene Group which was founded in the late 1980's by a group of investors who share a passion for good food and wine.

Chef Alessandro Colombis is a recent addition to Va Bene. He was standing outside the restaurant chatting on his mobile phone as I approached and encouraged me to come in and try - in his words, real italian food, Shangahi style. What on earth does that mean? Who knows, but I decided to try it anyway.

The interior is described as Tuscan and Venetian inspired in a superbly restored historic shikumen house. I thought the atrium was a lovely setting with lots of natural light, slate floor and beautiful orange trees. They offer set menus however I was keen to try their signature dish - Lasagne della Nonna Rosa - classic italian lasagna with bolognase sauce, porcini mushrooms and mozzarella. The menu indicated that you need to allow 10 minutes for this dish to be prepared however I waited over 30 minutes for it to arrive.

By the time it arrived I had high expectations. It was good, but there were no porcini mushrooms and the sauce was a little on the bland side, not as rich and hearty as I would have liked. I was craving a decent coffee so ordered a flat white and their signature dessert, Tiramisu. Well, now we are talking - this was absolutely sensational - the marscapone and coffee sauce was delicious and the coffee was great.

The atrium was almost full with mostly European visitors, in particular Italians. I don't know if this is because the restaurant is well known and offers great food or because so many travellers seem to stick with what they know rather than try the local cuisine.

Va Bene - House 7, North Block, Xintiandi, Lane 181, Taicang Rd, Shanghai - 86 21 6311 2211

http://www.vabeneshanghai.com/

Richard's Cafe & Bar, Astor House, Huangpu Road, Shanghai

Richard's Cafe & Bar, Astor House, Huangpu Road, Shanghai
Wednesday 17 May, 2006

Situated on the ground floor of Astor House, Richard's Cafe & Bar offers the only decent coffee in the hotel. The original name of Astor House was Richard's Hotel (named after a wealthy British family), which dates back to 1846. It was widely known as the first western hotel in the Far East.

Astor House experienced five generations of the Qing Dynasty and also experienced many firsts - the first electric light in China was lit here; the first telephone of China was installed here; the first stock exchange of China was declared open here; Western films were first shown here after they were introduced to China and many distinguished figures stayed here including: American President Grant in 1879; British Philosopher Russell in 1920; Scientist Albert Einstein in 1922; and film legend Charlie Chaplin in 1931 and 1936.

I've read lots of reviews on the Astor Hotel and I think it gets a raw deal - sure, there are improvements to be made and the customer service is average but there are some pretty good benefits. The hotel is located in a stunning building that is beautifully lit at night and is a one minute walk across Waibaidu Bridge to the Bund, the rooms on the Executive Floor (Level 2) have recently been renovated and offer private check in, massive rooms with all the mod-cons including a computer with free internet access, TV & DVD player and complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea and drinks in the Executive Lounge.

Richard's Cafe & Bar is located in the lobby of the hotel. The staff are hilarious as they try to offer the best customer service they can (which is close to non-existent). Each coffee is served with 2 butterscotch biscuits and they can do a pretty good latte and cappucino (not by our standards, by theirs - but when you need coffee it's surprising what you can get use to).

The funniest experience we had here was ordering ice-cream. The menu offers vanilla and chocolate and I requested a scoop of both. This was not acceptable - I could have a several scoops of vanilla or several scoops of chocolate but not a combination of both. OK then, chocolate it is.

What was served to me was the biggest ice-cream sundae I have ever seen. In a massive sundae glass was a layer of fruit at the bottom, several scoops of chocolate ice-cream followed by an entire can of whipped cream over the ice-cream with a cherry on top. I could not stop laughing and did not know how on earth I could eat it. I hardly made a dint in it before admitting defeat.

Richard's Cafe & Bar, Astor House - 15 Huangpu Road, Shanghai - 86 21 6324 6388

Morning Shanghai, Huangpu Road, Shanghai

Morning Shanghai, Huangpu Road, Shanghai
Tuesday 16 May, 2006

Morning Shanghai is located on the corner of Astor House. This hotel is well known for its unique style of classic Victorian and Baroque architecture and long history. The building itself dates back to 1846 and widely acknowledged as the first western hotel in the Far East.

The exterior of the restaurant and hotel are beautifully lit at night and the interior looks like it had a grand history however is looking a little tired today. The staff were very eager to please and provided us with a western menu offering French food as we were seated.

I ordered a Gin & tonic and it was served in the largest glass I have ever seen - think of a tall glass and double it by width and height. My travel buddy ordered a margarita - well, this was a challenge but it was served in the smallest margarita glass I have ever seen.

The restaurant also serves traditional Chinese cuisine, so we asked for the Chinese menu - this surprised the staff and caused much discussion (none of which we could understand). The Chinese menu offers some fascinating dishes - Shanghai style shredded yellow eel; Pigs intestines with clover; Braised jumbo fish heads; Fish lips with crab meat and roe; and Deep fried pigeon. No thanks!

Whilst I'll try most things we opted for Sauteed prawns with minced pork and chilli sauce; Spicy sauteed shredded pork with pancakes; Deep fried chicken with chilli pepper; Stir fried seasonal vegetables; Hot spicy eggplants in clay pots; and Shanghai fried rice. Our waiter, who could speak some English politely informed us that some of these dishes were very hot - was that OK? Absolutely - bring it on! This caused even more discussion amongst the floor staff and made us wonder if any westerners had tried their Chinese menu before.

Well, the food was sensational...the sauteed prawns was a highlight as was the hot spicy eggplant (it had a sweet and sour flavour). The food was hot and spicy but not as hot as I imagined. There were moments when your mouth was on fire but not enough to prevent us from enjoying this fantastic meal. The interesting thing about eating Chinese food in China is that the rice is served last. So, they bring all your dishes out and wait till you finish eating them before bringing the rice. You only need to ask for the rice earlier and they will bring it (if they understand you).

We weren't expecting to enjoy this meal as much as we did. I also love how they bring you complimentary fresh fruit at the end of your meal - this is great substitute for dessert.

Morning Shanghai - 1 Huangpu Road, Shanghai - 86 21 6309 1846

Cloud 9, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Shanghai

Cloud 9, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Jin Mao Tower, Shanghai
Monday 15 May, 2006

Jin Mao Tower is one of the tallest buildings in the world - the reception of the Grand Hyatt Hotel is located on the 54th floor, Cloud 9 bar is situated on the 87th floor and there is an observation deck with spectacular views across Shanghai on the 88th floor.

There are three separate elevator rides to get to Cloud 9 and each ride is very smooth. You hardly feel like you are moving at all - the only tell tale sign is your ears popping. From the lobby of the building you take an elevator to the reception of the Grand Hyatt (54th floor), then you catch another elevator to the 85th floor where enter the inner sanctum and it looks like a maze of mirrors and secret doors. There is also a sign that outlines there is a 120 Yuan (approx. $20 AUS) minimum spend at Cloud 9 if you are not a hotel guest. Finally you take a private elevator to the 87th floor where you are greeted by the immaculately dressed staff and shown to a table.

The first thing you notice is the view - uninterrupted views across Shanghai from every angle - it is breathtaking. We were shown to a great booth table overlooking the Oriental Pearl Tower to the right and the Bund with its beautifully lit old colonial buildings to the left.

We were on a mission tonight for dessert and Cloud 9 has some great options - what better place to enjoy a decadent dessert and cocktail? The menu is impressive with asian tapas, fabulous cocktails, wines and spirits from all over the world and the desserts are as you would expect - rich, tempting and very naughty.

The staff are unassuming - they only speak when spoken to and discreetly move around the floor. We ordered a Cloud 9 combination platter - tiramisu, giandija cake, creme brulee, fresh fruit, mango mille feuille with sherbet and mango cheese cake; and the Amaretto ice cream and raspberry sherbet ice bombe flamed with Grand Marnier and cherry sauce.

The combination platter is presented in a japanese bento box with 6 small plates containing each dessert and the amaretto dish was grandly presented to the table and promptly lit with flaming Grand Marnier. They were both very decadent and very, very good. We sat there for hours enjoying the view and working our way through the cocktail list - my highlight was the apple martini.

Cloud 9 - 88 Century Boulevard, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Jin Mao Tower, Shanghai - 86 21 5049 1234

http://shanghai.grand.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/entertainment/lounges/index.jsp

Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant, Huai Hai Zhong Road, Shanghai

Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant, Huai Hai Zhong Road, Shanghai
Sunday 14 May, 2006

This famous Beijing duck restaurant chain was established back in 1864. The Shanghai restaurants in this chain (there are two) are very crowded and you can expect to wait for an hour or so in peak times to score a table - but it is worth the wait. The alternative is to go just outside the peak times - we arrived today at 1.30pm for lunch and were shown straight to a table.

You enter on Huai Hai Zhong Road and are greeted by a hostess on the ground floor wearing traditional costume and the most bizarre looking shoes - she directs you to a lift where you catch a ride to the 4th floor. There is a waiting area on the 4th floor and more hostesses to greet you.

The size of this restaurant is a sight to behold. Think football field and it is rumoured that 1000 ducks a day are roasted, expertly sliced and served.

Ever since its establishment, the restaurant has stayed true to the traditional method of roasting duck: the duck is hung on a pole over a wood fire until the skin turns golden brown and crisp.

The menu is fascinating and worth a look as there are lots of pictures and interesting terminology e.g. 'aquatic products' which lists all of the seafood dishes. We ordered peking duck and a couple of side orders of steamed vegetables with mushroom & bok choy. Half the fun is the anticipation of your duck arriving at your table with its own personal trolley and slicer. Watching the slicer skillfully cutting the duck next to your table is quite an experience and you can't help but be impressed by their hand movements while preparing it. The ducks may look oily, but they aren't and the duck (skin + meat) just melt in your mouth. You are provided with pancakes, and your own side dishes of peking sauce and shallots.

Once the peking duck was finished we were served a clear duck soup and conjee to finish off. For this feast we paid 50 Yuan ($10 AUS) each.

Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant - 786 Huai Hai Zhong Road, Shanghai - 86 21 5403 7286

http://www.shanghai.quanjude.com/

T8 Restaurant & Bar, Taicang Road, Xintiandi, Shanghai

T8 Restaurant & Bar, Taicang Road, Xintiandi, Shanghai
Saturday 13 May, 2006

In a former life Xintiandi was a tenement district lined with Shikumen or "Stone Gate" houses. These houses were distinctive for their blend of nineteenth-century eastern and western architecture, and bordered straight alleys, which featured entrance gates wrapped by stylistic stone arcs and private courtyards.

In 2001, Xintiandi was re-created in an attempt to breathe new life into the historical site where Mao Zedong established the first Communist Party. While the original Communist Party Hall has been preserved as a museum, Xintiandi has emerged as the entertainment district in Shanghai, with some of the finest clubs e.g. C.J.W (which stands for Cigars, Jazz and Wine, restaurants e.g. T8 and boutiques e.g. Shanghai Tang (modern Chinese clothing).

T8 is located down a narrow alley of 19th century stone-and-brick buildings. You enter on a slate path over fish-filled ponds. The lighting is dim and very inviting and the hosts (especially the lovely Lilly) are beautifully dressed and charming. Inside the dining room you can either sit in the large room that includes a view into the open kitchen to watch the chefs in action, or you can choose a more secluded table in one of the many semi-secluded nooks around the main room.

Tonight we were seated in what must be the best seats in the house - on the round tables overlooking the kitchen - the tables themselves represent drums and have a stunning low hung light over the middle. The seats are designed to hug the table with low backs (so there will be no reclining).

From the minute we entered till we were seated it was very impressive. When the wine & food menus arrived, we were even more impressed - the menu is sensational with lots of seafood and asian influences. The food is described as Mediterranean and Asian fusion by an award-winning Aussie chef - Stephen Wright, who trained with the likes of Marco Pierre White, Eric Chavot and Jeremy Stode.

For entrees, we ordered:

- Shooters & Spoons of the Sea - lobster bloody mary, tuna tarter nori tempura, kingfish with ginger and lime and oyster with apple and wasabi
- Sichuan skewered king prawns, octopus compote with garlic cream and crab spring roll

For mains, we ordered:

- Slow cooked lamb and sichuan high pie with yellow curry coriander bisque
- Assiette of duck breast, confit leg and foie gras
- Side order - wok fried chilli spinach

For desserts, we ordered:

- Chocolate & coconut sorbet
- Affagato with a milk chocolate & tea praline on the side

After we ordered, complimentary starters were delivered to the table by our delightful waiter who had impeccable manners, was discreet and one step ahead of us the entire evening:

- Passionfruit juice with coconut froth served in a shot glass
- Bread served in its own pot with butter and zucchini puree in side dishes

The food can only be described as 'I have died and gone to heaven'. Every dish was beautifully presented on unique shaped plates which changed for each meal. The flavours were fresh, the meals were prefectly portioned and I am almost lost for words to describe each individual dish. This is in all seriousness the best restaurant I have ever visited in China. The service was impeccable, the food was without fault and the atmosphere was stunning.

T8 is a must if you are visiting Shanghai.

T8 Restaurant & Bar - 8 Xintiandi North part Lane, 181 Taicang Road, Xintiandi, Shanghai - 86 21 6355 8999

http://www.ghmhotels.com

Shanghai Grandmother's Restaurant, Fuzhou Road, Shanghai

Shanghai Grandmother's Restaurant, Fuzhou Road, Shanghai
Friday 12 May, 2006

First thing....forget about the name. I have been dreaming about this place since I first visited 12 months ago. Located a short walk back from the Bund, Shanghai Grandmother's Restaurant is a real find. It was here that I was first introduced to Grandmother's beancurd. It may sound gross but it is quite possibly the best Chinese dish I have ever eaten.

The interior is very basic - mismatched tables and chairs and staff that smile alot because you don't speak Chinese and they don't speak English. There are a number of tables downstairs with a non smoking section in a small room off the main floor - thank goodness as the Chinese love to smoke and eat. There is also seating upstairs with a few private rooms up the narrow stairs on the 2nd floor.

Tonight we came prepared. I had arranged for the dishes we wanted to order to be written in Chinese so I could literally just hand it over to the staff. This was really amusing as the staff weren't expecting it. We ordered a feast of:

- cucumber, garlic and chilli (brilliant refreshing starter)
- grandmother's beancurd also known as hot chilli beancurd (one of the hottest dishes I have ever enjoyed and absolutely delicious with fresh silken tofu tossed with thin beef slices and a thick chilli sauce)
- kung pow chicken (small chicken pieces tossed with peanuts and chilli in a thick sauce)

There wasn't much talking over dinner as this was the best meal I have enjoyed in Shanghai so far. As we were leaving we discovered a staff member (or rather chef that spoke English) and we spoke with him at length about another famous dish with small chicken pieces cooked with dried chillies. He wrote it out in Chinese for us and encouraged us to come back. It didn't take long to twist my arm....we booked a table for Sunday night.

Shanghai Grandmother's Restaurant - 70 Fuzhou Road, Shanghai - 86 21 6321 6613

Han Lin Fu Di restaurant, Wuzhen, Tongxiang City, Zhe Jiang Province

Han Lin Fu Di restaurant, Wuzhen, Tongxiang City, Zhe Jiang Province
Friday 12 May, 2006

Wuzhen is located approx. 2 hours from Shanghai and has a history dating back 1200 years. It is known as the Venice of China with it's canals, houses built over the water and beautiful bridges. As you enter the Wuzhen tour area you realise you are stepping into a suburb where some locals still live - many run tourist activities such as navigating the gondolas up the canals, running a store/ restaurant or collecting tickets at the many different museums.

We opted to take a gondola tour first and this was by far the highight. Our 'driver' sang to us along the way which earned him a tip of 10 RMB (about $1.50 AUS). The locals use the canals to fish, do their washing and collect water - it's a bizarre feeling to cruise past a family home where you can see they are sitting down to their midday meal and they turn around a wave at you after exchanging a friendly 'Ni Hao' (hello).

The old town is worth a walk around and there are an abundance of museums e.g. the Hundred Bed Museum which displays many hand carved beds from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and Qing Dynasty (1616-1911), Blue print cotton dyeing workshop and Xiuzhen Taoist Temple and Ancient Stage.

We had lunch at Han Lin Fu Di restaurant where they have a set menu. We had no idea what was on the menu as it was all in Chinese but were pleasantly surprised. Our meal was bought to the table in one go, so it looked like we had ordered a banquet:

- Pork meatball & vegetable soup
- Leg of suckling pig (tender, melt in your mouth suckling pig)
- Steamed fish (the whole fish cooked in a light soy sauce)
- Dandelion tea
- Steamed vegetables
- Plate of sugar cane (chew on the sugar cane to suck out the refreshing sugar liquid)

The staff did the bare minimum by bringing the food to the table and then standing around chatting for the duration of our lunch. When we tried to secure their attention, they assumed we wanted forks instead of chopsticks so dropped them on the table and disappeared. Let's face it customer service is not high on the agenda here but the food was great and Wuzhen is well worth a visit.

Han Lin Fu Di restaurant - Wuzhen, Tongxiang City, Zhe Jiang Province - 0573 8718799

http://www.wuzhen.com.cn/oldweb/wuzhen.eng/survey/index.asp

M on the Bund, L7, 5 on the Bund, Shanghai

M on the Bund, L7, 5 on the Bund, Shanghai
Thursday 11 May, 2006

Australian Michelle Garnaut opened M on the Bund in January 1999. This was the first of the high end restaurants in Shanghai and more importantly, the first to make it's mark on the Bund. It is housed in the former Nissin Shipping Building and offers a contemporary Art Deco-inspired interior and sensational views. Within months of opening, M on the Bund was named one of the best restaurants on the planet by the prestigious Conde Nast Traveler magazine, the first of a host of awards and accolades.

You enter No. 5 on the Bund via the side street Guangdong Lu which is directly opposite the entrance to the upmarket No. 3 on the Bund and houses high end shopping stores and other restaurants such as Jean Georges and New Heights. The entry to No. 5 is via circular stairs then you take the lift to the 7th floor - watch the doors they shut very quickly...

When you arrive on the 7th floor you can turn right to the Glamour Bar or left to the restaurant. The staff are warm and inviting and the restaurant was packed with ex-pats, tourists and a few Shanghai locals. The rooftop location is spectacular and offers a different view down the Bund, over the Huangpu River and across to the Pudong district. Quite a contrast from last night's experience at Jade on 36 (which was in the Pudong district looking back across the Huangpu River to the Bund).

Michelle Garnaut has surrounded herself with a host of Australian and international employees. Chefs Michael and Julie Roper (English and Australian respectively) serve a menu of modern European food, a collection of classics, nostalgic favourites and dishes from the Middle East and North Africa, too. There is something for everyone on the menu but the menus themselves were looking very tired and tattered with rips on the pages and discoloured covers. There was also a specials menu on the table along with all the monogrammed plates, cutlery with the signature 'M'. Decisions, decisions...for entrees we chose to share twice baked crab souffle served with avocado, prawn and crab salad and the charcuterie and terrines - torchen of foie gras, pork rillettes, hot salami's and air-dried meats served with all the accoutrements. A great start to the meal, the souffle was light and the charcuterie and terrines offered many different flavours and it's own personal side dish of pickles, olives, baby onions and hot mustard.

For mains I couldn't go past M's crispy suckling pig with colcannon - an irish classic of potatoes mashed with cabbage and leeks (I could have done without the colcannon - it was hard to eat and the suckling pig was riddled with small bones that you had to pick out) and the Pan fried fillet of snapper with a rich seafood sauce and portobello mushrooms sauteed and herb & spinach mash.

I couldn't get over how busy the restaurant was and many tables took several sittings over the courses of the evening - we, however, stayed put and took in the great views and chose dessert - baked nectarines stuffed with an almond paste topped with mascarpone and 3 scoops of ice cream made on the premises - chocolate, vanilla and passionfruit which was absolutely delicious.

As an Australian visiting M on the Bund it is a pleasant surprise to experience the relaxed, warm manner of the staff. They were very efficient and only made one small error of delivering the incorrect dessert to the table, apart from this they were hard to fault. After dinner we joined the hordes of dinner/ bar guests taking in the view from the terrace.

M on the Bund - L7, 5 on the Bund, Shanghai - 86 21 6350 9988

http://www.m-restaurantgroup.com/

Jade on 36, Shangri-La, L36, 33 Fucheng Road, Pudong, Shanghai

Jade on 36, Shangri-La, L36, 33 Fucheng Road, Pudong, Shanghai
Wednesday 10 May, 2006

Pudong Shangri-La Hotel is located in the Lujiazui Finance and Trade Zone of Shanghai. Prominently situated along the famous Huangpu River, the hotel has breathtaking views of Shanghais' legendary riverfront - the Bund and the Oriental Pearl TV Tower.

Jade on 36 was recently honoured as one of Shanghai's best new restaurants by Food & Wine magazine and the interiors have been designed by Adam Tihany. Tihany has conceived interiors for some 300 luxury restaurants - many for celebrated chefs - and boutique hotels e.g. Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong and the Aleph in Rome.

From the Lobby of Tower 2 you take a private elevator to the 36th floor. There are staff to greet you in the lobby and again in the restaurant reception. You are immediately overwhelmed by the decor - Adam Tihany describes the interior as...'the everyday rice bowl becomes a gigantic 3 dimensional sculptured gateway to the restaurant. The emperor's gown becomes the inspiration for an intricately folded ceiling feature in the main dining room. The snuff bottles assume a gigantic proportion and become sculptured glass floor light fixtures, and the small and delicate silk box containing jade objects become a full scale bar enclosure where people are the objects.' For a first time visitor it is a commanding and beautiful setting and I especially loved the effect of giant rice bowl which symbolises you are about to eat and the giant snuff bottles - they are captivating.

The staff are as you would expect, courteous, discreet and efficient. The chef, Paul Pairet, hails from France, and is known for his avant-garde culinary style. Previously, he has been a culinary consultant for the Fréres Costes in Paris, opened CAM - the bold restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Istanbul, and the Mosaic at the Relais Carrè d'Or in Paris.

The menu is described as European, American and Australian - what on earth does that mean? - I'm guessing it means international as there were thai, french and japanese menu offerings. The menu itself is divided into three parts - the first is the signature degustation menu with matched wines, the second is titled large and offers three different degustation menus, and the third is titled small and offers another three degustation menus. For a foodie, this restaurant is a dream with fantastic food pairings e.g. crispy pigeon skin with cocoa leaf and strawberry, flavours and unique offerings e.g. salmon mousse served in a tin can with a wafer thin biscuit on the side.

I opted for one of the menus from the large section called Orange, however, there are three complimentary starters:

- salmon mousse served in a tin can with a wafer thin biscuit on the side
- chinese tea with champagne froth in a shot glass
- bite size fois gras with honey shell positioned on the end of a chopstick

The Orange menu consisted of:

- Thai fruit salad with pineapple froth
- Quintessential sashimi with port jelly
- Pigeon, cocoa leaf and strawberry
- Steamed smoked choy fois gras
- Monte Carlo clay sea bass
- Roquefort with pear and port jelly
- Mango liquorice and dill
- Peanuts with nori crackers and green tea ice cream

After the sea bass another complimentary dish arrived - Rocket salad tossed with balsamic vinegar and salt with a single, very large french fry chopped up in bite size pieces. At the end of meal another complimentary dish arrived - toffee pudding served in a clear teacup.

To describe the food I would say WOW! My favourite dish would have to be the sea bass. Firstly, a stand is set up next to the table and then a tray is delivered that consists of 2 empty plates, a small pouring jar of basil and a baking tray filled with the seabass under a coating of sour dough. The waiter carefully taps the hard sour dough and removes each piece to reveal a seaweed covered piece of sea bass. This is transfered to an empty plate where the seaweed is expertly removed and the sea bass is finally moved to last empty late. The basil is poured over the top and it is presented to the table.

It would be very hard to fault any aspect of this dining experience.

Jade on 36 - Shangri-La, L36, 33 Fucheng Road, Pudong, Shanghai - 86 21 6882 3636

http://www.shangri-la.com/shanghai/pudongshangri-la/en/index.aspx

Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant, Huangpu, Shanghai

Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant, Huangpu, Shanghai
Tuesday 9 May, 2006

Located inside Yuyuan markets and near the entrance to Yuyuan Gardens, this is quite possibly the best dumpling place on the planet. The queues outside (takeaway) are legendary and long (and I mean long) but here's a hint - take the narrow staircase up to the 2nd floor. It is still busy, but you can sit down and eat and enjoy the views back over the markets and gardens.

I was here 12 months ago and loved the experience. There is a counter at the top of the stairs (on the left) with a menu on the wall. If you can't read Chinese you have buckley's of understanding the menu, however if you want dumplings they come in serves of 15 or 30 and they are very, very cheap. 15 dumplings may sound like alot but believe me, once you start it is virtually impossible to stop. It is not uncommon to see each table return to the counter to order another round - they are that good! It doesn't help that no-one speaks English, however it is all part of the experience. As personal space is a premium here, it is not uncommon for locals to stand over your table as you try to eat your meal.

This time around I discovered a new area on the 2nd floor that is a more upmarket restaurant - still attached to Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant. Instead of turning left at the top of the stairs go right. This leads you along a corridor to another 2 large rooms of seating where you are handed menus (with English translation) and provided with table service. For a little extra this provides a welcome change to not having a clue what is going on around you.

So, let's talk about the dumplings...the Chinese refer to dumplings as snacks and they have over 100 years' of history. They are known for their thin, translucent wrap, heavy flavor, and tender meat and are the size of a small water chestnut.

Here is a tip for eating this delicious snack - bite carefully, sip the soup and dip into Zhenjiang vinegar. If you are too keen and take a bite quickly the soup will squirt all over you and you will burn the roof of your mouth (like I did ....2 years in a row). I enjoyed the crab dumplings and also the pork dumplings but they also come in beef and vegetable. I also love the way they provide with a small dish of shredded ginger to enjoy - I'm not usually a fan of ginger but in small doses it is divine.

The best thing about this location is that all the shops are still open when you finish dinner. So, what better way to walk off those dumplings...

Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant - L2, 85 Yuyuan Road, Huangpu, Shanghai - 86 21 6355 4206

Akuna Cafe on the Bay, General San Martin Drive, Akuna Bay

Akuna Cafe on the Bay, General San Martin Drive, Akuna Bay
Sunday 7 May, 2006

Akuna Bay is a well kept secret. You need to enter Ku-ring-gai National Park from Terrey Hills and pay the $7 entry fee but it's a small price to pay for the stunning location on the Hawkesbury River.

Over the past 5 years the cafe at the marina has changed hands about 3 times and it was also closed for 12 months. For the regular visitors to the marina this has always been a sore point. But things have changed - the marina now offers free jazz on Sundays and the cafe is in the hands of new owners.

Today, the cafe was bustling. The cafe is small and the tables spill out onto the marina boardwalk. Most of the tables were left uncleared and as new lunch-goers arrived, they had to move the dirty plates themselves. It appeared very unorganised but as the only lunch venue at Akuna Bay - there really isn't anywhere else to go.

The menu is made up of burgers, salads etc and you order and pay at the counter. As we ordered, the young girl taking the order mixed up what we were having and had trouble writing it down. We were patient and repeated everything for her but the growing queue made her more and more anxious.

We ordered a smoked salmon caesar salad, club sandwich and gourmet beer burger. After a short wait, two of the three meals arrived with no explanation about the third. A short time later the three drinks arrived but there was no sign of the third meal. We asked a passing waiter and he promised to check on it. About 15 minutes later the third meal arrived. The waiter explained that the young girl tasking the order had written it at the bottom of the docket so the cook hadn't seen it. He apologised as if it was perfectly acceptable thing to happen in a cafe.

The gourmet burger was swimming in BBQ sauce and I couldn't eat the bread roll as it was too thick and burnt. The smoked salmon caesar salad looked like a green salad with bit a smoked salmon on top and the club sandwich was just as you imagined, full of bacon, lettuce, egg, tomato etc and tasted great.

The food is hit and miss and the service is dismal. Hopefully, over time as the team at Akuna cafe on the bay learn how to take orders, cook it and deliver it seemlessly, the experience will be enjoyable.

Akuna Cafe on the Bay - d'Albora Marinas, General San Martin Drive, Akuna Bay, Ku-ring-gai National Park - (02) 9450 1344

http://www.dalboramarinas.com.au/jsp/c_index.jsp

Harts Pub, cnr Essex and Gloucester Streets, The Rocks

Harts Pub, cnr Essex and Gloucester Streets, The Rocks
Friday 5 May, 2006

Harts Pub continually gets rave reviews on Eatability.com.au, so it was about time that I ventured over there. Today, the occasion was a team member's farewell and a very sad one at that. Unfortunately, our experience at Hart's Pub can only be described as a debacle - a total, utter failure.

The site has a long history with the first buildings going up sometime around 1816. The Hart Buildings, originally a row of terraced houses, were constructed between 1890 and 1900 in a restrained Federation Arts and Crafts style. The buildings were originally dwellings and have been commercial premises at some time during their life. When the ANA hotel was constructed the buildings were incorporated for use as a pub and it is now all part of the Shangri-La Hotel complex.

We arrived for our 12.30pm lunch reservation only to discover (after wandering around aimlessly for about 15 minutes, with no staff in sight) that our table had been given away to another large group. Great. We ended up dragging some outdoor tables together ourselves and securing some menus so that we could order. As we were reading the menus and deciding on our options a staff member approached our table and announced we had taken the table of another group. What the!*@! We explained that we did, in fact, have a reservation and our table had been given away.

The next drama commenced as we attempted to order our meals. The menu offers pizzas, BBQ, seafood and a range of other items e.g. chicken ceasar wrap. There was one bar open and two separate queues - one for drinks and one for food. The problem was one staff member was manning both queues. Where were all the staff??? The Manager was out tending to the BBQ and another staff member was in the kitchen and also delivering the meals to tables. It was a ridiculous setup.

Our table finally made it the front of the queue to order and pay (not before almost having it out with other patrons who tried to push in because of the long wait). Due to the unorganised team managing Harts Pub, our food arrived at different times- so some had finished their meals before others had started. As all this was going on some staff arrived from the Shangri-La to help, but it was too late. Two of our pizzas never arrived, so a staff menu showed up at the table with a refund but no explanation and they ran out of beef patties and bread rolls - and the food that did arrive was OK, the vegetable pizza was good but the Heritage, meat lovers and pineapple pizza were average. The comments about the other food ranged from good to poor and in the words of one of my colleagues 'the service sucked'.

I'm sure Harts Pub is not this bad all the time but our experience today was a debacle.

Harts Pub - cnr Essex and Gloucester Streets, The Rocks - (02) 9250 6022

http://www.shangri-la.com/sydney/shangri-la/restaurants/en/index.aspx?ID=1609

Garfish, Holtermann St, Crows Nest

Garfish, Holtermann St, Crows Nest
Wednesday 3 May, 2006

I've always enjoyed Garfish and love their slogan, 'Have your fish the way you wish'. I'm only familiar with the Kirribilli location and had been wanting to try Crows Nest for sometime. Tonight, all the planets were aligned and my wish came true.

Not surprisingly, the Crows Nest set up is very similiar. Large blackboards with the specials and fresh fish available along with the methods of cooking the fish and a variety of garnishes. There is even a TV screen displaying the action in the kitchen which is fascinating to watch as you eat.

We were warmly welcomed and offered seating both inside and outside (they have gas heating outside). Two waiters were playfully encouraging us to sit in their area and we chose to sit outside. It was relatively quiet and we were served drinks immediately. We were handed three menus, the main menu which includes the wine list, a cocktail menu and the fish menu. As their menu and website states,

'At Garfish our focus is on serving the absolute freshest fish available at a reasonable price. In conjunction with Sydney's leading fish suppliers we source fish at its very best from the market floor & from individual producers around Australia. We often select lesser-know fish varieties because they are the best available on the day.

You may select a dish from our menu or customise your own dish by selecting a fish from the blackboard menu, choosing how you would like it cooked & matching it with the garnish of your choice.'

I selected the snapper pie with sauce soubise and steamed broccolini and my dinner buddy chose swordfish, grilled with sweet pumpkin risotto. Our waiter then informed us that the snapper pie would take 20 minutes. Surely, this should be printed on the menu rather than sharing it after the order was made?

Within 15 minutes our dinner arrived. The snapper pie looked amazing with a large pastry covering over a deep dish. When I put my fork into the pastry itdisappearedd into nothing. Taking a closer look, the snapper, broccolini and sauce soubise were located on the base of the dish and there was a good 5 - 7 cm gap of nothing until the pastry lid. Is this how a snapper pie should be served? I read the snapper pie recipe from The Boathouse recently and I think not! Needless to say I wasdisappointedd and at $30 my disappointmentt plummeted....

The swordfish was good but nothing fabulous. Despite this, the service was very good and I like the location and setting, in particular the groovy handwriting on the blackboard. If I was to return I would stick to 'Have your fish the way you wish' and order off the fish menu, not the main menu.

We didn't have dessert but I can tell you the belgian waffles (I've enjoyed them many times in Kirribilli) and fantastic.

Garfish - 6/29 Holtermann St, Crows Nest - (02) 9966 0455

http://www.garfish.com.au/