Altitude, Cumberland St, The Rocks

Altitude, Cumberland St, The Rocks

Thursday 15 March, 2007

It was too good to pass up.......the opportunity to experience the culinary delights of a current 2 star (former 3 star) Michelin chef visiting Sydney. Sign me up. The invitation stated,

Shangri-La Hotel, Sydney is celebrating French Haute Cuisine at Altitude Restaurant & invites you to join European guest chef Jacques Pourcel from Le Jardin Des Sens & Altitude's executive chef, Michael Kean. Pourcel, an award winning French chef, & Kean will create culinary delights inspired by the marriage of our own Australian produce, Mediterranean cooking styles, and the ambience of Pourcel's home country France, integrating the aromatic flavours of pepper, saffron, vanilla, cinnamon and coconut. Pourcel and his brother Laurent own restaurants in Paris, Montpellier, Tokyo, Bangkok, London, Shanghai and Mauritius and have been awarded 3 Michelin Stars in 1998 for their creative approach to fine food. Altitude's a la carte menus are priced from $150 & degustation menus from $250, both selections showcasing the rich colour, flavour & Haute cuisine for which both chef's are renowned. Each will be accompanied by wines selected by French sommelier, Thierry Lebouc from Montpellier, France. Bookings essential.

I arrived early and took the lift to the top floor of the Shangri-La. I approached the reception desk of Altitude and gave the name our table had been booked under. The staff member had a quick look and then asked me if I definitely had a booking here tonight. I asked her to have another look but after scanning her list again she told me there was no reservation and turned me away. I stood there dumb-founded. My saving grace was soaking up the incredible views over the Harbour to the north until my dinner buddy arrived.

A short while later my dinner buddy arrived and I shared the news. She whipped out her email confirmation plus deposit receipt and we approached the reception desk again. Thankfully, a different staff member was behind the desk and he found our booking immediately. We explained what had happened with the other staff member and he apologised profusely stating that our booking was clearly noted.

We were seated at a prime table by the window looking down onto the Harbour Bridge. It was absolutely spectacular and we took a minute to soak it all in. Our waiter explained that a special menu had been prepared and we could either have the degustation or a three course meal prepared by Jacques Pourcel. He also shared with us that we could order another course at any time for $30.

We had been sent the menu via email earlier in the week so already knew what we wanted to order. We both agreed to try 4 courses off the a la carte menu and match wines from their French list. Here's what we ordered:

Me: Zucchini flowers stuffed and baked with crayfish tails, vegetable fricassee and herb butter emulsion

Dinner buddy: Butternut squash puree topped with fresh truffle shavings and crushed hazelnuts

Me: Crayfish tails semi oven baked next to a cannelloni of zucchini confit with caviar butter and scampi oil

Dinner buddy: Crayfish tails semi oven baked next to a cannelloni of zucchini confit with caviar butter and scampi oil

Me: Brochette of beef fillet with mushrooms with a potato galette and onion confit, passion wine jus reduced and seasonal salad

Dinner buddy: Challans duck wings confit in a stew of pistachio butter with the fillet roasted, chicken liver flan and roasting jus lifted with orange

Me: Chocolate butternut fondant served with crunchy nougatine, caramel a la creme and full milk ice cream

Dinner buddy: Chocolate butternut fondant served with crunchy nougatine, caramel a la creme and full milk ice cream

After we ordered we were served three complimentary starters:

- Olive tapenade with four styles of cheese bread e.g. Parmesan bread, blue cheese scroll

- Amuse bouche of puree carrot, pea and creme fraiche

- Olive oil served with freshly baked bread

One of the highlights during the night was watching Jacques Pourcel come out of the kitchen with a translator and visit each and every table for a chat. It was a lovely touch and when he arrived at our table we shook his hand, welcomed him to Sydney and congratulated him on the menu.

The food was beautifully presented and each course was very good (especially the chocolate and butternut fondant) BUT I was expecting more. I don't like to go there but I've had far better meals at Tetsuya and Vue de Monde. I think the hype surrounding a Michelin star chef over shadowed the actual food.

It was a good experience overall but the absolute highlight for me was the view.

Altitude - Level 36, Shangri-La Hotel Sydney, 176 Cumberland St, The Rocks - (02) 9250 6123

http://www.altitudesydney.com.au/