Imperial Tea, Ritz Carlton, Nanjing Xi Lu, Shanghai

Imperial Tea, Ritz Carlton, Nanjing Xi Lu, Shanghai

Thursday 31 May, 2007

We had heard wonderful things about the Ritz Carlton in Shanghai - the most recent GM had increased the engagement of employees to over 97 % and customer service was second to none. Having experienced the standard of customer service in China we had to check this out for ourselves.

The Ritz Carlton is located away from The Bund down the far end of Nanjing Xi Lu. To walk there from The Bund would take a good 30 - 40 mins however today we had spent all morning shopping at the Puxi xiangyang markets located at no. 580 Nanjing Xi Lu. It was quite an experience as the entire 3rd floor of the building had been shut down by the police yesterday so only levels 1 & 2 were trading. Apparently the police had decided that it was not legal to sell handbags but watches, sunglasses, jewellery, clothes, scarves, DVDs etc were OK. Go figure.

After a few hours of bargaining we decided to partake in The Imperial Tea at the Ritz Carlton. It's an impressive set up with shops and cafes located around the exterior of the hotel. Inside it is beautifully decorated and High Tea takes place in the Lobby Lounge daily from 2.30 - 5.30pm for RMB188 per person.

We arrived without a reservation and were welcomed into the cosy lounge with a range of deep arm chairs and dining chairs. We opted to sink into the green velvet covered arm chairs. The staff are impeccably dressed in a range of silk dresses and suits. They are very polite and courteous however the language barrier was more noticeable than we thought it would be.

The Imperial Tea comprised:

A glass of Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial N.V. Champagne

A selection of English tea sandwiches

Freshly baked scones with cream and preserves

Assorted fine afternoon pastries

Premium English tea from Ronnefeldt

As I don't drink tea I ordered coffee and all they could offer was American coffee from the peculator - no flat white, cappuccino or espresso which we found very surprising. The service was discreet but there were many occasions where we had to flag down a waiter. That said, it was lovely to sit back and enjoy the string quartet playing in the background whilst we sipped on Moet and worked our way through the tiered tray of goodies. The English tea sandwiches were actually a range of bread rolls with pastrami & lettuce, mashed potato and smoked salmon & horseradish and the pastries were mini dessert with no pastry to be seen. we came to the conclusion that this was the Chinese interpretation of high tea.

There was far too much food and although we gave it good effort we did not come close to finishing everything on offer. I'm a fan of high tea but there was no wow factor here. I was expecting more.

Portman Ritz Carlton - 1376, Nanjing Xi Lu, Shanghai - T: (86 21) 6279 8888

http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Shanghai/Default.htm

T8 Restaurant & Bar, Taicang Road, Xintiandi, Shanghai

T8 Restaurant & Bar, Taicang Road, Xintiandi, Shanghai
Wednesday 30 May, 2007

Our experience at T8 last year was faultless so it was imperative that we return this year. I had been in communication with the assistant to the GM since our experience last year and received this lovely message just before we left:

Stephanie, so good to know you are coming to Shanghai in May and welcome back! I'd love to reserve a nice table for 3pax on Wednesday 30 May at 7.30pm under your name. Look forward to receiving you then!

T8 is a restaurant that earned a place in Conde Nast Traveler's 2002 "Hot Tables" list of the top 50 "world's most exciting restaurants." The restaurant is tucked away in a corner of Xintiandi - a shopping and entertainment area crafted out of the buildings that, ironically, were the site of the first meeting of the Chinese Communist Party.

The restaurant's design is unique offering a lotus pond on entry, wooden latticed partitions dividing the eating area into intimate dining rooms, an impressive glass wine cellar, glass fridges displaying the fresh vegetables and an open kitchen that is wonderful to watch with impeccably dressed staff.

On arrival we were led to our table......... upstairs. Not happy Jan - I immediately knew something was not right as the dining space upstairs is so secluded and you are so far away from the liveliness of the kitchen and atmosphere downstairs. We ordered Apple martinis to kick off the evening and these were without a doubt the best apple martinis I have ever tasted. Despite this we still wanted to move downstairs so called the Manager over. After explaining that we would like to be seated downstairs and had specifically requested this when we had booked in February he looked shocked and said it was near impossible to secure a table downstairs and that I couldn't have received an email from the assistant to the GM as she was on sick leave. As we have learnt persistence pays off in China so after repeating our request - guess what? A table miraculously became free downstairs. After enjoying our drinks upstairs and sampling their amuse bouche - sangria sorbet and individual fresh baked bread served in clay pots with zucchini butter - we moved downstairs.

Our table was positioned with a perfect view into the kitchen and now that we were settled we decided to celebrate with a bottle of Bollinger. The staff were discreet and move around the floor effortlessly - before you even realised your glass has been refilled or your plates cleared. Not surprisingly we received another amuse bouche - sangria sorbet and individual fresh baked bread served in clay pots with zucchini butter - as it was so deliciously good we didn't turn it away.

The menu is a fusion of Chinese/ Japanese and international cuisine and there are only about 6 offerings for entree and main. For entree I could not go past the Watermelon salad with goats cheese, haloumi, watercress and coriander. It was light, fresh and the flavours just exploded in your mouth. My China buddies opted for the tataki of tuna served on a long rectangular plate and the salmon fillet on a Chinese salad base. We all sat there in silence enjoying every single mouthful.

For main I ordered the slow cooked lamb high pie with yellow curry bisque and my dinner buddies opted for beef tenderloin and king prawns. The presentation of these dishes were just so impressive - each dish came to the table on a different shaped plate that was perfect for it and must have been designed with the dish in mind. The smells and flavours were overwhelming and again, we were not disappointed. My lamb pie was melt in your mouth good and it was sitting in a bowl of bisque that was spicy and incredibly more-ish.

The kitchen was so entertaining to watch and we found it fascinating that although the chefs were all Chinese and Japanese every order was read out by the Exec chef in English and all the staff replied 'Yes chef'. I love watching the action of a kitchen and this one made it look effortless. Every staff member had a crisp white uniform on with the T8 logo on the back and although we could see how hot it was in the kitchen none of them had broke a sweat.

We were all so full that dessert was definitely not on the cards. Instead we ordered more apple martinis and retired to their bar. Sinking into the large leather chairs we could easily have camped out there all night. Whilst it wasn't the experience we had hoped for the food was sensational and I have no hesitation recommending T8.

T8 Restaurant & Bar - 8 Xintiandi North part Lane, 181 Taicang Road, Xintiandi, Shanghai - T: (86 21) 6355 8999

http://www.T8-shanghai.com

Villa du Lac, South Huangpi Rd, Shanghai

Villa du Lac, South Huangpi Rd, Shanghai

Monday 28 May, 2007

Tonight we experienced something special. Located in Xintiandi - the French Concession area of Shanghai with tree lined streets and upmarket shops - is Villa du Lac. Built inside a restored shikomen with Chinese and French influences it is a magnificent dining space.

On arrival we walked into a gorgeous foyer with white walls, stained glass windows, fresh flowers everywhere and delicate Chinese ornaments. It was just lovely and we were greeted by William Wong - the Maitre'd and very proud employee - and directed to our table.

What we weren't prepared for was that our table was situated in its very own private dining room. A stunning white room hidden behind white lattice doors with heavy handles we had or own private sanctuary. It was spectacular and we were like kids in a candy store wanting to open every door, drawer, window etc.

We also had our very waitress who remained with us for the entire evening. Interestingly, there is a custom here that the staff cannot lose eye contact with their guests. So in order to leave our private dining room she had to walk backwards out of the room. We thought this must have been a joke but she did this all night long. They have thought of everything and one of the most impressive aspects was the each cream suede chair had a metal handle built into the back so as the staff did not touch the suede to move the chairs in and out for their guests. Very smart!

The menu was intriguing and we asked William for his guidance. For entree we opted for:

- Duck cooked in rice wine (so incredibly tender and perfectly matched with the sweetness of the wine)

- Pork spare ribs

- Huting drunken chicken (served cold and considered the house speciality)

There was fanfare when it arrived as a staff member arrives with the dishes on tray that our waitress removes and places on the side board. She then transfers each dish individually to the table in order to serve you. We did not have to lift a finger other than to eat and drink as she kept our plates and glasses full all night long.

For mains we deferred to William who recommended:

- Fish with mandarin sauce

- Moneybags with chicken and mushroom

- Pork belly

- Seasonal vegetables

Each main course was beautifully presented so much so that we didn't want to ruin them. But, they just looked so appetising that we got over that pretty quickly. The fish was the most impressive dish of the night - it was prepared so that we just had to delicately pick a piece off the skin and it easily fell apart and them coated it in mandarin sauce that was to die for. It wasn't appropriate to lick the plate but if I'd been at home.....

The food was delightful and the over attentiveness of our waitress did start to annoy us towards the end however it all added to the experience. After a beautiful meal William insisted on giving us a tour of the other rooms and floors. As we were the last guests to leave we had the run of the place and William's undivided attention.

On level 1 there are 3 private rooms (one large and two small) each carrying the Chinese/ French theme. On level 2 there is a large open dining space with several tables and 2 small private dining rooms and on level 3 there is one large dining space that is used as a private room with its own terrace that looks out across the lake. It was magnificent.

Villa du Lac is an experience and definitely a night to share with a group of friends.

Villa du Lac - 383 South Huangpi Road South, Shanghai - (86 21) 6387 6387

New Heights, The Bund, Shanghai

New Heights, The Bund, Shanghai
Sunday 27 May, 2007

Tonight we were all set to go to Shanghai Grandmother's Restaurant in Fuzhou Rd. I was craving Grandma's beancurd. We jumped in a cab and were shocked to discover it has closed for 1 month while renovations take place. Thinking of a Plan B my China buddy suggested somewhere with a view. I know..........New Heights.

Located on the top floor of the fabulous No. 3 on The Bund, New Heights commands spectacular views down the Bund and across the Huangpu River to Pudong. We arrived without a reservation - not a problem - and decided to have a pre-dinner drink out on their large balcony first. Sitting out on the deck watching the light show and city skyline we would have been happy to stay there all night. With a very reasonable cocktail list with prices to match we think we've discovered the best kept secret in Shanghai - don't tell anyone!

We went back inside to the other side of the floor where the restaurant is situated and we shown to a table. The menu had an innovative set up where everything was divided into the following categories:

- Small things

- Wet things

- Leafy things

- Things that swim

- Things that walk

- Farinaceous things

- Southeast Asian things

- Vegetarian things

- Things on the side

After reading through the extensive menu we decided to share the Chef's gourmet selection of mixed entrees. When we asked our waitress what this was she did not know to respond so, she just walked off. When it arrived at the table on a long rectangular plate there were 4 small entrees - some offered two pieces and some offered one. We had made it very clear we were sharing this to start so it was bizarre to me that couldn't accommodate this. I think it was more lost in translation....but the entree was very good and consisted of:

- Crispy roast duck spring rolls

- Grilled prawns with creamed leeks

- Peppered beef carpaccio

- Tuna tartare

For mains we both decided to go with a meal from 'Things that Swim'. I ordered the grilled tuna with sauteed eggplant, cucumber and fennel ribbons and sauce vierge while my dinner buddy opted for the oven baked cod fillet, chorizo crushed potato, olive crust, roast garlic and tomato jus. We were both seriously impressed with the main meals. However the service continued to get worse - our wine glasses were left unfilled so we kept having to serve ourselves, the bread and butter was not replenished and our plates took ages to clear. There was also another gentleman circling the dining space picking up the odd glass, straightening the odd tablecloth and serving the odd dish. He kept a watchful eye on us as we continued to flag down service, ask for more wine but never once stepped in to do anything. If he was the Maitre'd he should be sacked.

As we were pondering the dessert menu I decided to jot down in my small notebook what we had enjoyed for dinner (memory like a sieve). As I was writing a male staff member bounded up to the table and loudly stated 'you cannot copy our menu!' My China buddy and I just laughed as I explained I was writing in my notebook which I use as a diary when I travel. I politely showed him my diary and he was adamant that I was not allowed to copy their menu. When I calmly repeated that I wasn't copying their menu AGAIN he finally got it and backed away saying 'sorry, sorry' over and over. Just ludicrous - especially when every restaurant has their menu posted on their website!

After this experience we pondered dessert and I was impressed that they offer two sizes of each dessert - a regular and mini version for those that just want a taste. I ordered a taste of the banana & thyme creme brulee with crisp filo and chocolate cigar and my China buddy ordered a chocolate martini with chocolate cigar.

The dessert was sensational and when we asked for the bill we were pleasantly surprised at how reasonable it was. It was a shame that the service was so bad but I would definitely return for a drink at their bar. After we paid up we returned to the outdoor bar for a final drink and to soak up the view. It is spectacular.

New Heights - 7th floor, Three on the Bund, Shanghai - T: (86 21) 6321-0909

http://www.threeonthebund.com/#

Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant, Huangpu, Shanghai

Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant, Huangpu, Shanghai

Sunday 27 May, 2007

If you choose one local food experience in Shanghai make sure it's Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant. I love this place and part of my excitement about returning to Shanghai was to eat here. Having eaten here last year we were well versed with the process and system in place to obtain food and were introducing our new travel buddy to the joys of dumplings.

Widely regarded as Shanghai's best xiao long bao (pork-and-crab soup dumplings) Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant is the place to go. Situated inside YuYuan Markets & Gardens you cannot miss the queue or eager diners. It's staggering to watch the queue grow for the takeaway dumplings - today we did a rough estimate of 75 people - patiently waiting (it's funny to think they can queue for dumplings so well but everything else is chaos - National Queueing Day has worked wonders!).

We bypassed the long queue downstairs and took the stairs to the 1st floor. It's still chaos and eager diners stand over your table waiting for you to finish up and move on. We bypassed this and climbed the stairs to the 2nd floor. There was still a queue (well, in fact 2 queues were forming) so we jumped on the end of one and asked the Aussies in front of us how long they had been waiting. They said 20 minutes.

Not prepared to wait 20 minutes and eager to adopt the Chinese way I glanced around the dining room and spotted a table for 2 that was vacant on the end of table for 4 that was full. I marched up to a waiter and told her that we would be sitting there. IT WORKED! It made me think of that saying 'if you don't ask you don't get'. We left the ever growing queue and received death stares from the Aussies still standing patiently waiting for a table.

We ordered a mix of dumplings - 1 basket of pork/ crab dumplings, 1 basket of pork dumplings and 1 x crab ovary dumpling. While we waited we picked at the dish of fresh ginger on the table and watched the kitchen visible through a glass window where about 10 staff were methodically preparing dumplings. Our food arrived quickly and we prepared our individual dishes of soy sauce with fresh ginger to dunk the dumplings in.

The food was exceptional and even though I knew I would burn my tongue/ mouth if I didn't slow down and drain the soup from the dumpling first....I did it anyway. If you suck out the soup first and then fill it up with the soy & ginger combination you will have a flavour sensation. It's sensational. I had ordered the crab ovary dumpling to see what all the fuss was about. Every table had one and it is a large dumpling about the size of a closed fist sitting in its own small steamed basket with a straw sticking out the top. I was really impressed.

After this feast - we paid $10 all up including drinks - we were ready to hit the markets.

Nanxiang Steamed Buns Restaurant - 85 Yuyuan Road, 2nd Floor, Huangpu, Shanghai - T: ( 86 21) 6355 4206

Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant, Huai Hai Zhong Road, Shanghai

Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant, Huai Hai Road, Shanghai

Saturday 26 May, 2007

This place is an experience - from the outfits the female staff wear (including the bizarre shoes), the size of the dining space, the military precision of the duck carvers and the taste of roast duck. I am literally salivating as I type this and feel strangely like Homer Simpson..........mmmmm roast duck.

We knew what we were in for having visited last year but our first time China travel buddy had no idea what to expect and it was just brilliant to share the experience with a first timer.

We arrived tired and exhausted after our day trip to Suzhou. We took the lift to the 4th floor with 100 of our closest friends - it constantly amazes me how the Chinese have no issues with personal space. On arrival it was survival of the fittest as everyone rushed the reception desk. We had already decided to say we had a reservation as it was just so busy and we definitely did not want to wait or be turned away.

Our plan worked and we were led through the massive dining area down some escalators and shown to our table on a raised platform. The menu is enormous and there are pictures inside the help make your selection easy. For the less adventurous the pictures freak you out as every single bit of every animal is used e.g. pigs intestines, cattle trotters etc.

We knew we wanted duck, vegetables and spring rolls. Flagging down a staff member - no one speaks English here - was an experience and ordering where we literally pointed at the different pictures and nodded. Hilarious.

Our duck carver arrived a short while later and we watched in awe as he expertly carved the duck to pieces with an incredibly sharp carving knife. Pancakes all round we were in duck heaven. The vegetables were equally as good - we opted for a plate of eggplant and bok choy.

Everyone orders duck at Quanjude so be prepared to eat and get yourself in a greasy, duck fat mess. Thankfully they provide hot towels so you can keep yourself somewhat clean!

Quanjude Roast Duck restaurant - 4/F, 786 Huaihai Road, Shanghai- T: (86 21) 6433 7286

Jinyesi, Nanmen Rd, Suzhou

Jinyesi, Nanmen Rd, Suzhou
Saturday 26 May, 2007

Today we did a day trip to Suzhou -known for its silk, gardens and grand canal.

Suzhou is located in the center of the Yangtze Delta. Since 42% area of the city is covered by water, including a vast number of ponds and streams, Suzhou is praised as the 'Oriental Venice'. The city is cut by the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal from north to south which is 1800km long. Built in 514 BC, Suzhou is an ancient city with a 2500 years' history.


After a boat ride through the canals and a peak into some of the local homes that hang over the canal we were taken to the impressive sounding Suzhou No. 1 Silk Factory. Built in 1926 it is a state firm with over 300 workers. It's set up for tourists so you can take a tour of the factory (just a few OH&S issues jumped out at us as we wandered through the factory and were invited to put our hands in scalding water to retrieve a cocoon or handle heavy machinery - bizarre!) and dine at their restaurant which offers Western and Chinese cuisine. Our guide Irene attempted to take us into the very ordinary looking Western restaurant but this wasn't going to happen so we explained that we were here to eat Chinese food.

Not long afterwards we were directed into the Chinese restaurant and invited to take a seat in a private room with or very own waitress wearing a gorgeous silk dress. We realised very quickly that no menus would be provided so Irene had to do a deal with the waitress to secure some dishes. These all arrived in quick succession:

- Salt & pepper prawns
- Beef in pepper sauce
- Sweet & sour fish
- Green beans
- Sauteed cabbage

The prawns were a sight to behold - a plate of prawns cooked in their shells piled high and sprinkled with salt & pepper. It was an interesting take on the dish we know and love at home and very, very fiddly to remove the shells. Once the shells were removed the sprinkles of salt & pepper has disappeared. The beef was average came served with large strips of capsicum, the fish was OK and was served in heavy fried batter and the vegetables were good.

Overall, a very ordinary experience but it kept us energised for an afternoon walk through the Humble Administrator's Garden which is 500 years old and set over 5 ha.


Jinyesi - 94 Nanmen Rd, Suzhou - T: 86 512 6525 1047

http://www.1st-silk.com/

Laris, The Bund, Shanghai

Laris, The Bund, Shanghai
Friday 25 May, 2007

After a cocktail at the Glamour Bar we walked across the street to Three on the Bund and took the lift to level 6.

Three on the Bund is described as a celebration of contemporary living; a place where art, culture, food, fashion and music converge to inspire a richer life. Situated in a landmark seven storey historical building. Three on the Bund comprises four restaurants, a music lounge, an art gallery showcasing thought provoking contemporary Chinese exhibits, an exclusive day spa and barber and two floors of high end retail outlets featuring world renowned brands.

What an experience this restaurant offers! We had a sensational evening and I would have to say it is up there with Vue De Monde (my all time favourite dining experience).

An article in Smart Shanghai stated,

"David Laris, an internationally renowned chef who has received critical acclaim for his cuisine at prestigious restaurants on several continents, including Conran Group flagship Mezzo in London, says his food reflects not only his Australian Greek roots, but also his experiences, passions and travels. Says Laris, "My food signifies a freedom from any ethnic labels." The 1,700 square meter space has been transformed to include a decadently designed vault, bar and lounge; a modern classic dining room; a "seafood and more" bar, serving the finest wines and champagnes by the glass; and two stunning private rooms. Featured dishes include David's tantalizing Seared Scallops on Parsnip Mash with Oyster Lemon Foam, and sweets such as his delectable Pandan Leaf Panna Cotta."

"The Design Designed by celebrated architect Michael Graves, Laris features six distinct but ingeniously complementary spaces comprising a waiting lounge, the Vault bar, the "seafood and more" bar (Fins, Claws & Wings), the main dining room and two private dining rooms. After the dramatic simplicity of the entrance, the waiting area is one in which guests can enjoy a drink or order light, tasty snacks."

"The main dining room is a wholly different space, with pleasing and soothing tones of white on white, from the flowers to the spotless table cloths. Areas of blue-gray in the leather of the banquettes and the fabric on the plush, over-sized chairs give added definition, while overhead lighting is an ingenious collaboration of alabaster stone and silk fabric which lends both the softest of light and a cloud-like feeling. According to David: "Laris is a place for individuals who are excited by remarkable food, design and style. It is about elegance but not pretense, featuring beautiful but comfortable spaces and outstanding contemporary cuisine and service. It will warm and stimulate - not only the palate, but all the senses - with the convergence of chef and designer."

When you exit the elevator on the level 6 you are greeted with white/ grey marble columns, walls and floors and yellow lighting that spells out Laris in the entrance foyer. It's unique and just ahead is the reception desk. The staff are impeccably dressed and all greet you as they walk past. As we were shown to our table the actual size of the restaurant is overwhelming however it's divided up into different dining/ bar spaces so it is deceiving. The main dining room commands the view across the Bund to Pudong and is a mix of tables and round booths and are well spaced so you are not listening to the next tables conversation.

We were directed to a booth and admired the simple, elegant table setting (including the napkin folded in the shape of a men's business shirt) and single Arum lilly on display. Our waiter was a knowledgeable, friendly man who anticipated our every need and ensured we had a fantastic night. The menu is large but our waiter talked us through it and offered his own recommendations based on our food preferences. After deciding on the Tasting Menu with matched wines we kicked off the experience with a bottle of Bollinger - why not, we were celebrating! As a bit of a joke I asked our waiter if we could meet the chef during the course of the evening.

Within 10 minutes we were introduced to the delightful Gerhard Passrugger (Executive Chef) from Kracher, Austria. Gerhard has lived in Shanghai for 4 years and prior to that lived in Sydney and worked at Burtons - what a small world. We could have spoken with him for hours and he kept returning throughout the evening to discuss a dish and chat about Sydney.

The Tasting Menu comprised:

- Amuse Bouse - 2 x shot glasses - Potato foam topped with parma ham - Clam and shallot shooter

- Tuna with wasabi infused sushi rice, avocado and pink ginger, egg white dressing

- Pan roasted scallops on parsnip puree and foaming oyster nage (our delightful Executive Chef - Gerhard Passrugger - added beluga cavier to this dish just for us)

- King prawns wrapped in pancetta on honey & thyme, pickled cucumber, cumin yoghurt and quince

- Cod fillet with mono miso emulsion, sea urchin and braised daikon

- Beef tenderloin with panceta and fois gras terrine, porcini mushrooms and fried green beans

- Dessert tasting plate - 4 x mini desserts - Hazlenut ice cream on sesame wafer, Carrot cake topped with strawberry and vanila sauce, Chocolate fondant, Cheesecake & strawberry brulee

There were several moments during the night where I felt I had died and gone to heaven. For starters the Tuna with wasabi infused sushi rice, avocado and pink ginger, egg white dressing was an absolute knockout. This dish is up there with Shannon Bennett's truffle risotto. For one of my China buddies the scallops were so deliciously good they bought tears to her eyes.

The matched wines were impressive and full compliments must go to the staff. We watched in awe as the Maitre'd kept a discreet eye on each table and effortlessly managed the floor. Our waiter definitely knew his stuff and shared his knowledge of each dish and matched wine with ease.

There is nothing to fault here - it was an experience. The food, wine, staff and atmosphere were exceptional. I love dining at a restaurant where they take their service as seriously as their food. Laris is a must.

Laris - 6th floor, No 3 The Bund - T: (86 21) 6321 9922

http://www.threeonthebund.com/

The Glamour Club, Shanghai

The Glamour Club, Shanghai
Friday 25 May, 2007

We had dined at M on the Bund last year and noticed the Glamour Bar on the way out. It looked fabulous so we were determined to have a few drinks there before heading across the road to dine at Laris tonight.

The Glamour Bar is described by the team at M as a 21st century impression of a 1930's Hollywood movie set which has revived the elegant tradition of sophisticated drinks and after hours music in Shanghai.

I had read a few reviews from World's Best Bars including,

The decor in this bar is definitely "glamour". Shiny bead curtains shimmer in the light. There are lots of comfortable corner arrangements with sofas and chairs and the lights are dimmed. The service is excellent and discreet and the restrooms probably the most spotless ones I have ever come across in a bar. Extra points for that! The prices are at the level you could expect from a bar with this view. Not a "party bar", but a very stylish place to go for a chat and pre dinner drink.

Hard to describe how well done the Glamour Bar is... beautiful room, well-crafted cocktails, great service, and a heart-stopping view of the flood-lit Bund. Go - but put something nice on, will you?

The Glamour Bar is reached by taking the lift to the 6th floor. The staff are courteous and all dressed in stunning black outfits with pink trim - in fact there's a lot of pink around with the lighting, drink coasters, match boxes etc. We were seated by the window on the lounges with a view across the Bund to Pudong - spectacular. The decor is a little shabby chic with mix- matched lounges, chairs, foot stools all covered in different fabrics and an amazing collection of lamps shades and stands.

The drinks menu is impressive and it took us a minute to read through the pink menu and locate what we wanted. I opted for the Shanghai mule while my China buddies ordered a Caprioska and a Cucumber & mint martini. After we ordered a small bowl of popcorn was delivered to the table and the candle on the table was lit. The lighting is dim in order to show off the amazing views.

The Glamour Club is a great place for a drink before or after dinner.

The Glamour Club - 6th floor, 5 The Bund, Shanghai - T: (86 21) 6350 9988

http://www.m-restaurantgroup.com/

Bei Wei, Century Ave, Shanghai

Bei Wei, Century Ave, Shanghai

Friday 25 May, 2007

Today we discovered the new Xiang Yang markets located in Pudong alongside the Shanghai Science & Technology Museum. The Museum is an impressive building and has its own Metro station. There is a lot of secrecy around the new markets as the government shut down the old Xiang Yang Markets last June. It's such a lucrative industry that they weren't going to disappear altogether and several new versions have popped up in the last 6 months.

We arrived by taxi and had to look around for the new markets. They are located underground and because the grounds of the museum are so huge they aren't that easy to locate. That said, we were approached within minutes by a young gentleman who asked if we were looking for the markets. When we replied 'yes' he offered to lead the way.

Walking into the underground markets is an experience. There are literally hundreds of stalls and they all seems to be connected by hidden doors, secret passages etc. It's exciting. After spending a few hours shopping and bargaining we had worked up an appetite. We didn't know where to go so asked one of the locals where they had purchased their lunch. It looked like Bei Wei was a firm favourite so we happily walked inside.

Just inside the entrance is a viewing area to watch the chefs prepare xioalongboa. It's fascinating the watch this as they effortlessly kneed the dumpling dough and create the small pieces required for each dumpling. Each steamed basket came with 6 dumplings and our lunch was literally made to order. So, we waited in the relative cool air-conditioned environment and enjoyed a cold drink.

The steamed baskets arrived with an accompanying dish of sweet soy sauce. Each dumpling contains a pork/ crab mixture and soup. So, when you pop the dumpling with your chopstick you can either suck out the soup or drain it into the basket and replace it with soy sauce. They were absolutely delicious and we polished them off so quickly that we could have easily gone another round. However, there was more shopping to do...

For lunch we paid a bargain 6 Yuan or $1 AUS each.

Bei Wei - 2002 Century Ave, Pudong, Shanghai

Morning Shanghai, Shanghai

Morning Shanghai, Shanghai
Thursday 24 May, 2007

We've arrived! For our first evening meal we opted to stay inside the hotel and visit Morning Shanghai, also known as Richard's Restaurant. It's strange as Astor House, the name of our hotel is also known as Pujiang Hotel. It's a case of dual identity on many levels.

Astor House was established in 1846 by the Richard's family. It holds the claim to fame of being the first western hotel in Shanghai. In 1907 the hotel was restored to a neoclassical Baroque structure.

We had stumbled across this place last year by sheer accident (we don't usually opt to eat in hotel restaurants preferring to get out & about) but Morning Shanghai was a pleasant surprise so we were looking forward to visiting again. The food is authentic Shanghainese and the environment is described as a traditional Shanghainese with a European flare. The decor is old world with very high ceilings, crown corners, chandeliers and wooden floor to ceiling side boards and display cases.

Tonight the staff were in abundance but sadly no-one was that interested in doing their jobs i.e. serving their customers. They were far more interested in standing around the bar chatting. Several staff asked us did we want the Western or Chinese menu. When we replied 'Chinese please' this prompted another staff member to approach and ask the same question. I think they thought we were confused but we definitely wanted the Chinese menu - why come to China and eat Western food?????

We ordered a range of dishes and some new finds:

- Spicy eggplant in hot pot
- Deep fried chicken with dried chilli and peanuts
- Shallot pancakes
- Crab and mushroom dumplings
- Steamed rice

The food arrived quickly and then it occured to us. The Chinese always serve the rice last. Don't ask.....it's standard practice here in order for you to enjoy the other dishes. At home we are so used to soaking up the sauces etc in the rice. We politely asked the waiter for our rice and he looked at us as if we had just announced that the Olypmics has been striped from China in 2008! After composing himself her dutifully returned with our three small bowls of rice.

The food was fantastic - the spicy eggplant was cut into 4-5 cm peices, layered in the hot pot and soaked in a very spicy sauce that was great over the rice. The deep fried chicken was a version of KFC's popcorn chicken but with bones, the dumplings were juicy, delicate and served in a small steamed basket and the pancakes....well, let's just say something was lost in translation as pancakes they were not. What we received were a cross between thin, layered pastry packed full of shallots and fried. They were actually very good.

After lots of talk about Shanghai, the plan of attack for tomorrow and people watching we paid the bill - it was only $32 Aus - what a bargain!

Morning Shanghai (inside Astor House)15 Huangpu Road, Shanghai - T: 86 21 6309 1846

Thelma & Louise, Hayes St, Neutral Bay

Thelma & Louise, Hayes St, Neutral Bay

Wednesday 23 May, 2007

On such a stunning Sydney day there was only one place to be...near the water. Thelma & Louise is located right over the water beside the ferry wharf in Neutral Bay.

During the week it's an isolated spot with a handful of locals walking past to catch the ferry or meet the bus. Over the weekend there's far more activity.

Today, we arrived for an early lunch in preparation for our holidays - me to China and lunch buddy to Greece. Thelma & Louise is so relaxed and feels like you are walking into a friends home - the eclectic mix of wall hangings, magazines to read, mix matched chairs and ceramics on display. We secured a table in the bay window and within an hour the place was so busy that there were no free tables. Locals/ business people were milling around on the pavement waiting patiently.

We were served water and had menus delivered. The menu is lean offering 3-4 main meals and 3-4 lighter options. We decided to share one of the daily specials - Atlantic salmon fillet with sliced potatoes and steamed asparagus - and one of the menu items - Spaghetti with seafood (mussels, vongole, prawns) in chilli sauce.

The service is a little slow and reminiscent of my last visit however the food is really good. We shared both main meals and the staff were ver y accommodating providing two side plates so that we could divvy up the food. The atlantic salmon was light with a crispy, bordering on toasted, base. The vegetables were fabulous - the potatoes were sliced in 0.5cm rounds and the asparagus was so fresh and green- and drizzled with a creamy sauce. The spaghetti was also very good - served in a spicy tomato sauce and topped with an abundance of seafood.

We were impressed and decided to stay a little longer to enjoy a coffee and plate of Lebanese treats - baclava, shortbreads and turkish delight. We definitely did not need these treats but felt we needed something sweet with our coffee.

Thelma & Louise is a local cafe with charm. The staff mean well and work the tiny dining space with the best of intentions. The food is great and I stick to my earlier recommendation that it is a great place for a long lunch.

Thelma and Louise - Shop 1/1, Hayes St, Neutral Bay - T: 9953 7754

BBQ King, Goulburn St, Sydney

BBQ King, Goulburn St, Sydney

Tuesday 22 May, 2007

Tonight I laughed myself silly at Barry Humphries' 'Back with a Vengence' performance at the Capitol Theatre. Prior to the show my dinner buddies and I enjoyed a quite bite at BBQ King.

BBQ King has a colourful history - restauranteur/ chef Philip Chau was kidnapped and extortion is not uncommon from what you read/ hear in the media. However it also attracts some of the cities most esteemed chefs for late night feeds including Neil Perry. As the description states,

When you see the best of the best chefs in Sydney eating here after a hard night, you know for sure the place offers something special. BBQ King is one of those places whose reputation doesn't hold a candle to the actual quality. Everyone should get there at least once!

We arrived for an early dinner and were met with 10 or so staff in red tops milling around the entry. The smell is overwhelming...peking duck, hoisin sauce, BBQ pork, chilli sauce - it's a feast for the senses. Every table was full but we found one on the ground level near the rear. The staff crack me up at BBQ King as they are super keen to help you but as soon as they realise what you are saying or asking for they always refer back to the English speaking staff to take your request/ order. They move through the dining space at breakneck speed and turn tables over between diners with impressive speed.

We ordered peking duck pancakes, salt & pepper calamari and BBQ pork for three plus some steamed rice. The great thing about BBQ King is the cracking pace at which everything is served. It makes it the perfect place to dine before going to the Capitol Theatre, Entertainment Centre etc. The non stop stream of eager diners is testament to the food served.

Our meals were excellent - the pancakes were so good we could have easily gone another round, the generous slab of duck meat & skin barely fit on the small pancake. The calamari was light with plenty of chilli, salt & pepper to give it a kick and the BBQ Pork was deliciously tender and piled high on an oval plate. We enjoyed every mouthful.

The decor is simple and very basic - it's definitely not a fine dining joint - but if you are looking for great Chinese cuisine check it out.

BBQ King - 18-20 Goulburn Street, Sydney - (02) 9267 2586

Walsh Bay Cafe, Hickson Rd, Dawes Point

Walsh Bay Cafe, Hickson Rd, Dawes Point

Monday 21 May, 2007

Tonight we were off to see 'The Art of War' at the Sydney Theatre Company. Our last minute dinner plans were decided over the phone at 5.15pm and went something like this....

'Fancy dodgy Chinese?'

'Sure, first there grab a table'.

We've come to know the Walsh Bay Cafe as dodgy Chinese as we've had some serious hits and misses at this venue and the staff just don't care.

We arrived tonight to find no-one in the restaurant. I could have cleared out the furniture, dismantled the fridges and taken down the art work. The staff were gathered in the kitchen or next door (they also look after the bottle shop and supermarket in the same building). After a good 5 minutes in which we had helped ourselves to menus a staff member appeared. Completely oblivious to concept of customer service she wandered past not acknowledging us.

I called out and explained we would like to order. This got a reaction and she shuffled over with notepad in hand. The order was really simple:

- Salt & pepper tofu

- Chicken, chilli and peanut stir fry

I'm pleased to report that the food tonight was really good. The salt & pepper tofu was fabulous with soft, silken tofu covered in a light, crispy salt & pepper coating. Served piping hot with a smattering of shallots and fresh chilli on top we thoroughly enjoyed it. Likewise, the stir fry was also very good - the thick chilli paste was very spicy and generously covered the chicken, peanuts and vegetables.

We didn't receive enough cutlery, bowls or plates and when we asked the staff they looked at us blankly. Embarrassingly, on my behalf, one of my theatre buddies called halfway through dinner and I loudly explained that we were 'seated inside the dodgy Chinese' - oops! Thankfully no-one, apart from my other theatre buddy, had heard this so we were off the hook.

How was the play? The Art of War is a Chinese military treatise written during the 6th century BC by Sun Tzu. Composed of 13 chapters, each of which is devoted to one aspect of warfare, it has long been praised as the definitive work on military strategies and tactics of its time. Throughout the play this is applied to management/ business practices with a parallel story occurring about Iraq. I enjoyed it.

Walsh Bay Cafe - 16A Hickson Rd, Dawes Point - (02) 9241 4365

Lenotre High Tea, Phillip St, Sydney

Lenotre High Tea, Phillip St, Sydney

Saturday 19 May, 2007

Oh the decadence! Today, the divas of cuisine met in the lovely surrounds of the Sofitel Wentworth to experience the Lentore High Tea.

I've been very fortunate to experience this twice before - 14 April and 29 April and I rate it highly.

It seems the word as spread. The Lounge Bar know has several tables flowing out into the foyer to accommodate the crowd. Each time I have visited the Lounge Bar has been near empty but today it was almost filled to capacity.

We ordered coffee/tea and did a double take as three of the female staff looked so similar - triplets? This occupied our attention until we realised that they weren't. The staff were pleasant but not on the ball - coffee/ tea orders were forgotten, one tray arrived and we waited a good 10 mins for the next to come. There were plenty of staff around but they were unaware of what was happening.

Our coffee/ tea arrived and one of the divas dropped the line that the sugar bowl looked like a sugar quarry as all the sugar cubes were non-uniform blocks that looked like they had been chipped off a large slab.

When they finally did arrive our blue/ orange tiered trays consisted of:
- Cone au Chocolat - A rich dark chocolate cone filled with luscious berries and served with cream
- Macaronades - Macaroons made of soft almond meringue filled with fresh raspberries and lemon curd
- Tarte au Citron - The classic French lemon tart, sweet pastry filled with almond and lemon cream, topped with lemon meringue
- Opéra - Chocolate pastry with layers of almond biscuit, decadent chocolate ganache with coffee butter cream and topped with gold leaf
- Camaïeu - Layers of chocolate sponge flavoured with marzipan in between layers of dark and milk chocolate mousse topped with ivory Chantilly cream
- Ambiance - Layers of vanilla Bavarian cream, with fruits of the forest jelly and caramelized hazelnuts
- Scones Jam & Cream - Traditionally baked scones with homemade jam and cream
- Assorted Finger Sandwiches
- Mariage Frêres Tea & Vittoria Espresso Coffee

It's great sharing this with friends as everyone has a different view of what is delicious and what isn't. The divas of cuisine really enjoyed the Ambiance and although I wouldn't normally opt for this dessert - it was sensational. The vanilla Bavarian cream was so light and very more-ish - the layer of jelly added a lovely sweetness. However, the chocoholic in me leans towards the Opéra....the layers of richness.

I do believe this is currently the best High Tea offering in Sydney. BUT they have to improve their level of service. Why is this always the case????? Come on Sydney - step up!

Lenotre High Tea, Sofitel Wentworth - 61-101 Phillip St, Sydney - (02) 9228 9104

http://www.sofitelsydney.com.au/sydney_hotel/lenotre.html

Vacca Bianca, Clark Rd, North Sydney

Vacca Bianca, Clark Rd, North Sydney

Friday 18 May, 2007

Lazar's occupied this corner site for many years. I remember going past in the bus around Christmas time and it looked like the signage had changed overnight. It's now known as Vacca Biana - an Italian restaurant offering indoor/ outdoor seating. They kept the look and feel of Lazar's but added a wood fire pizza oven and gelateria.

Tonight, I stopped by on my way home to check it out. There was a decent crowd in the restaurant and a few locals standing around the wood fired pizza oven waiting for takeaway. I decided to chat to the pizza maker to see what the all the fuss was about. Italian born with a gorgeous accent my friendly pizza maker walked me through his favourites:

- Dodici: prosciutto, rocket and Parmesan

- Nove: mushrooms, ham and Gorgonzola

- Quattro: Gorgonzola, pecorino, feta and Parmesan

He did all this whilst kneading 3 pizza bases and expertly layering simple, fresh ingredients on top before gliding them onto the pizza tray and sliding them into the hot oven. I watched in awe. Despite, the recommendations I opted for the Quattordici which was topped with prosciutto, salami, chilli, ham, bacon and Gorgonzola.

After a few minutes in the wood fired oven the pizza was presented in a white cardboard box. My new favourite pizza maker sent me on my way with a cheeky grin and a warm goodbye.

The verdict on my pizza? The thin pizza was perfect and had bubbled around the edges which gave it a mild smokey flavour. The toppings were sparse and a little too salty for my liking. I know....with toppings like prosciutto, bacon and Gorgonzola what did I expect?

Would I return? Absolutely. Next time I will try one of the friendly pizza maker's suggestions.

Vacca Biana - 62 Clark Rd, North Sydney - (02) 9955 9711

Swans Ladies Lunch, Doltone House, Pyrmont

Swans Ladies Lunch, Doltone House, Pyrmont
Thursday 17 May, 2007

We had high expectations about today's lunch....the promise was a captive audience with the Sydney Swans.......... and 550+ women. Who knew what would happen? As a loyal member of the Swans I had signed up for this lunch for 4 other season ticket holders.

We arrived for the 12pm kick off and had to squeeze through the crowd to secure our first drinks. It was a free for all with the most diverse crowd of women - corporates, loyal fans decked out in club colours and the rest of us.

Our party of 5 were seated on Table 17 with 5 new friends - who have been loyal members for over 11 years. Words can't adequately describe how entertaining this lunch was - our new friends had started drinking last Christmas so were primed, botoxed, lifted and ready to enjoy this event.

Dotted around the edges of the dining space were 1 x Benefit makeup stall plus the wonderful staff from Mobile Healing Hands with 2 x manicure stations and 2 x seated massage areas. Everything was available for the duration of the event.

The Doltone House staff meant well however they didn't keep the glasses topped up. We all had to flag down the staff on several occasions to sample the fabulous Tempus Two wines on offer:

- Pewter Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay
- Copper Melange a Trois A blend
- Copper Cabernet Merlot
- Copper Moscato

The main meal was stuffed baby lamb shoulder with spinach, pine nuts and baby glazed carrots and vanilla jus. The lamb was so tender and delicious - everyone on our table was very impressed. The dessert was millefeuille of raspberry, pistachio creme patisserie with raspberry compote and lemon syrup. It was crumbly, messy and would have been so nice with a dollop of ice cream, custard or cream.........or all 3. But, that said, for a crowd of over 550 people the food was fantastic.

Sandra Sully hosted the event and I was really disappointed by the way she 'dumbed herself down' and acted like a complete bimbo when talking with the crowd and interviewing the players. On the other hand, Rebecca Wilson was great - frank, honest and a loyal Swans fan, she asked tough questions and wasn't afraid to disagree with or challenge the players.

The fans and 'celebrities' were out in force. Tom Williams, Anna Coren, Raylene Boyle (what a champion) it was hard to know where to look. The players were decked out in their club ties and neat suits. Sadly, coach Paul Roos, Barry Hall, Michael O'Loughlin, Brett Kirk, Jude Bolton and Adam Goodes were missing. Seriously, for a $115 luncheon the expectation is that all players plus the coach are present.

The players that were present did a good job of selling raffle tickets, having their photos taken, signing autographs, being interviewed by various media and taking part in the panel discussion on stage........especially Peter 'Spida' Everitt and Tadhg Kennelly.

After having a manicure, enjoying the meal, wines and our table of new friends we picked up our goodie bags stocked full of product from Diet Coke, Sky Vodka, Kit Kat, Nivea and various publishing houses. It was an entertaining long lunch and we will all sign up for next year.

Cheer, cheer the red and the white,

Honour the name by day and by night,

Lift that noble banner high,

Shake down the thunder from the sky

Whether the odds be great or small,

Swans will go in and win overall

While her loyal sons are marching

Onwards to victory.

Swans Ladies Lunch - Doltone House, Piers 19-21, Upper deck 26-32, Pirrama Rd, Pyrmont

http://www.doltonehouse.com.au/

Bistro CBD, King Street, Sydney

Bistro CBD, King Street, Sydney

Wednesday 16 May, 2007

The spontaneous dinner venue often reveals a hidden gem. Tonight, I met up with my China buddy for a quick bite after work. Quick bite? Two and half hours later we were still enjoying our Cape Mentelle sav blanc semillion. Where did the time go?

We met on the corner of George & King Sts to decide which direction to go.......Chinatown, King St Wharf, Spanish Quarter? We glanced around and honed in on Bistro CBD. On arrival we walked into the crowded ground level bar that was packed to the rafters. Not keen to stick around we walked over to the lift well and went up to Level One. Bistro CBD secured one hat in the 2007 Good Food Guide and deserves more. The promotional blurb states,

Bistro CBD makes the most of its elevated first floor city location, with classic pillars and wide arched windows that give the restaurant an open, airy feel. Bistro CBD has been a firm Sydney dining favourite as an inner city lunchtime venue. The corporate diner expects exceptional quality, great ambiance, and great service all within the hour, and Bistro CBD delivers! For dinner it's a great starting point for an evening at the theatre, or a night out with good friends. Head Chef James Privett has become renowned for his menu that delivers French Bistro Classics with an inner city energy.

We were greeted by a lovely waiter and shown to a table by the window. The view was across the art deco Grace Hotel over the road and down to the hustle and bustle of peak hour below. The dining space was an oasis for us and the fit out is white, corporate and offering splashes of colour via their intriguing artwork - Picasso-esque.

After settling on the wine we reviewed the menu. It was very impressive but I could not go past the pan roasted pork loin with pancetta, potato cake and pistachio puree. My China buddy ordered the pan fried snapper fillet with crab croquettes and sweet corn puree. Not long after we ordered a complimentary cauliflower soup arrived in a miniature, delicate tea cup. It looked terrific however was a little too salty for me. Thick crusty bread also arrived with a dish of butter and was seriously delicious.

The mains were just sensational - I absolutely loved the combination of pork and pistachio. Every mouthful was an explosion of flavour. The pork loin was large - mildly crispy on the outside and very tender inside. I could not get enough of this dish. Just as impressed, my China buddy devoured her fish.

As we settled back, incredibly satisfied by our main meals, we learnt that they had taken the strawberry souffle off the menu. Not to be discouraged I ordered pear, chocolate and frangipane tart with whisky ice cream. Yes, that's correct........whisky ice cream. My China buddy opted for the highly recommended espresso crème brulee with fig and armagnac compote.

It's hard to believe that the food could get any better but the desserts seriously wowed us. The pear tart was served warm and the whisky ice cream (it was mild) melted into it. I savoured every spoonful. The brulee looked sensational and had layers of fig on the base.

We shared how impressed we were with the waiter and maitre'd and did not want to leave. This was an unexpected treat and I can't wait to return.

Bistro CBD - Level 1, 52 King Street, Sydney - (02) 8297 7010

http://www.merivale.com/hotelcbd/restaurant

Brew, Harrington St, The Rocks

Brew, Harrington St, The Rocks

Tuesday 15 May, 2007

Today's lunch time treat was returning to Brew. A friend of mine had a voucher from the Entertainment Book which enabled us to score one main meal for free - bonus!

We arrived without a reservation at 12.30pm. There was a sign at the entrance stating 'Please wait to be seated'. So we waited. The cafe was half full and the staff were moving around the floor topping up glasses and delivering food but didn't acknowledge us. We shuffled further inside hoping to be seen and after a short time a waiter wandered over and asked if we were here for lunch. I'm was tempted to answer this question with something ridiculous (such as, 'No, we just like standing here in the doorway') but held back.

After being seated we were provided with menus and our drinks orders taken. The lunch menu has changed a lot and offers more wintery options such risotto, pasta and steak plus the usual sandwiches, salads and wraps. You know when you scan a menu and get hooked on something then keep coming back to it? Well, I noticed the roast duck risotto immediately and nothing else on the menu mattered.

My lunch buddy tossed up a few different options and then came around to the roast duck risotto too. We ordered and then watched as Brew got busy. The tables are spaced quite close together so it's not the place for a private conversation however the staff are good at keeping everyone a table apart unless it gets too busy.

The decor at Brew is industrial with large exposed beams, concrete flooring and slick wooden chairs and tables. There is a great display of magazines and papers on the side bar that you are welcome to flick through as you wait for a takeaway coffee or pick up your lunch.

The risotto's arrived on round dinner plates with large shavings of parmesan on top. I was expecting to see large slices of duck either laid across the top or mixed into the risotto but it was finely chopped in small cubes. Cracked pepper was bought to the table and made to order. It did make me wonder why they didn't offer the same approach with the parmesan. The risotto was really creamy and piping hot. It was tasty but a tad on the glugy side.

Brew is a good local cafe open for breakfast and lunch - the staff are friendly and there is always something new on the menu.

Brew - 121 Harrington Street, The Rocks - (02) 9251 1577

What's in my fridge?

What's in my fridge?
Tuesday 15 May, 2007

I get asked this question all the time so thought it would be fun to come clean and share the facts:

- Do you ever go grocery shopping? Absolutely! I love grocery shopping - checking out all the new food brands, packaging etc
- How much do you keep in your fridge? Not much - basics like milk & margarine
- What is your average weekly food bill? No idea
- Do you have a fridge? Of course

Well, folks the sad truth is out. As of today, the fridge is near empty.

The fridge currently stocks milk, margarine, yoghurt, aioli, sparkling wine, cheese, my eye mask and Diet Coke.

As my Mum would say, 'Are you looking after yourself?' By the looks of the fridge that would be a 'no'.

Gumnut Tea Gardens, Harrington St, Sydney

Gumnut Tea Gardens, Harrington St, Sydney
Monday 14 May, 2007

Hidden away at the far end of Nurses Walk in The Rocks is a gorgeous oasis known as the Gumnut Tea Gardens. From George St you would have no idea this little gem existed.

We arrived for lunch and were pleasantly surprised to find a few tables free. It's very relaxed so you sit yourself down, help yourself to cushions for the chairs (as they are a little uncomfortable) and a bottle of water with tumblers. On display near the water bottles was a history lesson about the site. Flyers were available to explain the history of Reynolds Cottage - the home of the Gumnut Tea Gardens. Their slogan is 'the prices are moderate and the history lesson is free.'

For you history buffs, or those who read Playing Beatie Bow at school, Reynold Cottage was built in 1823 - 9 by an Irish convict named Thomas Ryan and is the second oldest dwelling left in the area. Pre-dated only by Cadman's Cottage, it is a rare example of small scale Colonial Georgian architecture in Sydney and the best example of an authentic Rocks dwelling.

Our waiter was friendly and provided our menus with a blurb about the specials board. The food is basic with a range of ploughman's style meals, sandwiches, pies, salads etc. I opted for the chicken & leek pie and salad and my lunch buddy decided to go with the tandoori chicken salad. I tried to order a Diet Coke but was informed they only stock Coke. Water for me.

The crowd was a mix of tourists and office workers and you truly feel a long way away from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. The open air dining space covered with large umbrellas, the gorgeous trees hanging overheard and the teapots displayed in the garden all make for wonderful atmosphere.

For $14 each we enjoyed our meals. My chicken & leek pie was perfect with thick cut pastry packed full of chicken pieces and creamy leek sauce. The Gumnut is open daily for breakfast and lunch and open for dinner from Wednesday through Friday. The leafy courtyard offers live jazz on Friday nights and Sunday afternoons.

Gumnut Tea Gardens - 28 Harrington St, Sydney - (02) 9247 9591

India Times, Morts Rd, Mortdale

India Times, Morts Rd, Mortdale

Saturday 12 May, 2007

The promise was the best butter chicken in Sydney, so I hightailed it over to Mortdale for dinner with friends. India Times is located in the shopping village of Mortdale - a hive of activity on a Saturday night with plenty of local restaurants to pick from. On entry you are met with colourful sari's lining the walls and loud, colourful feature walls. I was expecting to hear Indian music and thankfully the theme didn't extend that far....

The dining space is compact and buzzy. We were left standing in the entrance for several minutes before someone approached us and directed us to a table. After leaving us alone with one menu between three they finally returned after my dinner buddy grabbed a passing waiter with 'we're ready to order now'. I was happy to go along with my local friends suggestions and she ordered the following dishes:

- Mixed entree of onion raita (deep fried onion pattie), kachche kebab (spiced lamb mince, rolled), hare masale ki murgi (chicken thigh fillets in a green herb marinade of fresh mint,coriander and basil, oven-cooked and served with tomato chutney) and Hara Masala Champ (Lamb cutlets in a marinade of coriander, spinach, cracked pepper and lemon juice, slow-cooked)

- Murgh makhani (butter chicken in a very creamy buttery, tomato and almond sauce)

- Beef Passanda curry (long slices of beef in a thickened, sweet sauce)

- Basmati rice

- Sweet naan bread packed with currents and pistachio nuts

After we ordered we were delivered a bowl of pappadums and a gorgeous mint & yoghurt sauce. We didn't waste a second and polished these off as if we hadn't eaten for 24 hours. The rest of our food was good - the portion size was great and it was very reasonable. The service was haphazard but well meaning throughout the night and we had to flag down a waiter on several occasions.

To get to the bathroom you had to walk to the rear of the restaurant, through the kitchen and outside into a small courtyard. Two outhouses have been built, one male and one female and the basin stood in the courtyard along the wall. It isn't the best set up and doesn't give a great impression for health & safety regulations.

I wouldn't say this was the best butter chicken in Sydney however, Indian Times is a pleasant, local Indian restaurant.

India Times - 2/ 1 Morts Rd, Mortdale - (02) 9585 1969

Astral, Pyrmont St, Pyrmont

Astral, Pyrmont St, Pyrmont

Tuesday 8 May, 2007

I don't enjoy going to the Casino - I think it's tacky and I don't get people who sit at machines and tables and spend their hard earned cash. However, I have found a reason to return........Astral.

Astral is located on the 17th floor of the Casino complex and offers a well kept secret. When you take the elevator to the 17th floor you have two options - turn left to enter Astral restaurant or turn right to enter Astral Bar. Anyone can visit the Bar and you don't need a restaurant reservation to go there. As you walk through the entrance you find yourself in a glass box with grand sweeping views out to the Blue Mountains and across to the city skyline - it's magnificent. Then, you notice the outdoor area. We had a drink outside on this balmy, surprisingly calm evening and soaked up the view. You get to see a view of the city that you rarely see and it is sensational.

We carried our drinks through to the restaurant and were impressed with our table - that was positioned to showcase the view out to the Harbour Bridge and over the city to the East. The dining space is slick with crisp white table clothes, tea lights and a sprig of rosemary on each table. The light fixtures are also worth mentioning. We were warmly greeted by several staff and offered menus. The pre-theatre menu is good value comprising 2 courses for $60 and 3 courses for $72.

Astral is a fine dining restaurant led by chef Sean Connolly and his team and is described as,

Located at the tip of Star City’s Hotel Tower, Astral defines the ultimate Sydney dining experience: panoramic harbour views, modern French menu, extensive wine list and professional service. Astral interiors showcase a rich palette of chocolate and bronze with custom designed wallpaper, extraordinary modernist chandelier and towering 4m wine wall. Coupled with the stunning view of the Sydney skyline, the interiors evoke an atmosphere of comfortable opulence.

After we ordered we were promptly delivered a bread roll accompanied by small dishes of butter and salt. This was shortly followed by the Amuse Bouche: salt & pepper cauliflower on a toothpick and warm cauliflower velonte served in a shot glass with almond oil. It was a wonderful starter. The smell of the almond oil was alarmingly overpowering but once you took a sip of the velonte it disappeared and you were swept up with the flavour of the creamy cauliflower.

For entree I ordered the marinated figs with blue cheese panna cotta, crushed walnuts and fennel salad. WOW! This really worked for me....the combination of the blue cheese and figs was magic. The only downside was that there was so much more blue cheese than fig - so I was left with a large dollop of blue cheese that I didn't want to go to waste. No problem, my dinner buddy still had some bread left so we polished it off that way. My dinner buddy ordered the Terrine of confit chicken, kipler and trompettes, potato butter and green beans.

The staff were good however the sommelier was too assertive for my liking. She was so determined to sell us some wine. For mains we both ordered the white wine daube of beef
pomme puree, white & green asparagus. It was melt in your mouth delicious and incredibly filling. We really had to take our time with this one and savour every mouthful. We also ordered a side of Gratin dauphinois - probably the most decadent version of potato bake I have ever tasted.

This was a great experience and I enjoyed every minute.

Astral - level 17, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont - (02) 9777 9000

http://astralrestaurant.com.au/

Amo Roma, George St, Sydney

Monday 7 May, 2007

My last experience here was in November 2006 - the food was really good but the service left a lot to be desired. Today, my lunch buddy and I sat outside in the small courtyard backing onto the Nurses Walk and looking across to a fabulous antique jewellers.

The website promotes the Amo Roma experience as,

Step through the historic sandstone and stain glass facade, into the stylish and modern Italian restaurant. Situated in the old English, Scottish and Australian Chartered Bank building that was designed by architect William Wilkinson Wardell and built in 1886.

The warm ambiance, delicious food and excellent service ensure a memorable function at Amo Roma. Superbly located, Amo Roma boasting innovative Italian cuisine, a visit to Amo Roma's promises to be very memorable. Its floor to ceiling glass windows enable you to relax and fully enjoy the surroundings.

Entering from The Rocks amongst the hoardes of tourists, Amo Roma offers intriguing architecture - the sandstone facade is quickly dismissed to reveal modern, polished floorboards, glass table tops and blackboards listing the daily specials.

We were welcomed and ordered some drinks to start. Shortly afterwards another waiter appeared to take our order - which would have been fine except we didn't have any menus. These were promptly delivered and we reviewed the offerings that included pasta, burgers, pizza, seafood, veal etc.

I decided to go with pizza and, this made me laugh, I ordered exactly what I ordered last November - Amo roma: tomato, mozzarella, Italian salami, ham, capsicum, mushroom & smoked cheese. However, this time I asked for chilli flakes to sprinkle on top. My lunch buddy ordered the beef burger that was packed full of salad, cheese and large beef pattie along with a massive side of fries.

The meals arrived and looked impressive but, not surprisingly, they forget my chilli flakes. Trying to locate a staff member at this point was near impossible but we managed and I finally got my wish. The pizza was great - thin base and fresh toppings were all the more enjoyable by a generous sprinkle of chilli flakes.

My verdict hasn't changed - the food here is great and reasonably priced but the service is very average.

Amo Roma - 135 George Street, The Rocks - (02) 9247 1920

www.amoroma.com.au

Victoria Room, Victoria St, Darlinghurst

Victoria Room, Victoria St, Darlinghurst

Sunday 6 May, 2007

I've had some great experiences at the Victoria Room but unfortunately today was a shocker. The Victoria Room experience is described as,

On Saturday & Sunday afternoons at The Victoria Room in Sydney’s Darlinghurst, crooking one’s pinkie finger and sipping fine tea is de rigueur. From it-girl gatherings and generational get-togethers to hen’s days and birthdays, ladies of all ages (and many a fine gentleman, too) are enjoying the company of dear friends over this wonderful revival of British tradition. High Tea is served every Saturday between 2.00pm and 4.00pm & Sunday between 1.00pm and 5.00pm. Bookings highly recommended.

Standard High Tea $30.00pp (excl 10% Sunday surcharge)

Royal Tea $40.00pp (excl 10% Sunday surcharge)

Walking up the stairs to the Victoria Room is always a treat - the tea light lined stairs are dark and inviting as if you are entering a secret, invite only party. On time for our 3.30pm High Tea booking we walked into a half full dining space. There were plenty of staff walking around but unfortunately no service.

After 15 mins of being seated a staff member approached and introduced himself as Patrick - our waiter for today. He left us to view the menu not acknowledging that we already had menus on the table and were ready to order. We tried to explain this but he disappeared so quickly.

We then spent the next 15 mins trying to attract the attention from any staff member to place our order. Bizarrely, after another 10 mins a different waiter appeared with our tiered tray of goodies which we hadn't yet ordered. Not willing to wait any longer we took it. This waiter was very enthusiastic and offered a good run through of each item on the tiered tray:

- Afternoon Tea Sandwiches - Chicken & Wild Herbs, Cucumber, Creme Fraiche & Dill, Smoked Salmon with fresh Rocket, Lemon & Capers

- Scones & Conserve - Date & Plain Scones served with Triple Berry Conserve & Chantilly Cream

- Assorted Sweeties - Mini Florentine, Sticky date pudding, Vanilla Bean Cup Cake topped with Pink Icing & Confetti, Passionfruit Yo-Yo

As great as the food looked we explained that what we really wanted was to order our tea/ coffee. Surely, it would have been obvious to any staff member that our table was missing tea/ coffee? Anyway, we literally had to call out to our waiter Patrick to get him to come back to our table. I ordered a coffee and Patrick shared that the coffee machine was broken so they had a substitute coffee in place - substitute? I didn't know what that meant but ordered anyway. We also asked for some more jam & cream for our scones as they just didn't give us enough for three scones.

The tea/ coffee arrived but sadly no jam & cream. We, again, tried to flag down a waiter........just anyone (Bueller, Bueller......). We repeated the order for jam & cream and by now our scones had gone cold (they were initially served warm). With the delay everything just fell flat. The food was OK not great and the coffee..........shocking.

Not sure why today's service was so dismal - there was plenty of staff around just not enough initiative. For a fan of the Victoria Room this experience was really disappointing.

Victoria Room - 235 Victoria St, Darlinghurst - (02) 9357 4488

http://www.thevictoriaroom.com/main.php

Maitre Karl, High St, Willoughby

Maitre Karl, High St, Willoughby

Saturday 5 May, 2007

Maitre Karl is one of my favourite local restaurants and the last time I visited was for dinner. Today's lunch was to catch up with my China buddies and talk about our upcoming (and very exciting) holiday.

As a local offering Maitre Karl hits the mark. It's relaxed with indoor and outdoor dining and as a lovely touch offers bowls of water for dogs out the front. Karl greets every customer with a warm and friendly booming 'hello friends'. He gave us a choice of tables and we opted to sit in the conservatory.

A glass of sparkling to kick off our celebrations and Karl came over to enquire about what we were celebrating. When we shared our holiday plans with him he was full of enthusiasm, which is hard to imagine as he is so enthusiastic anyway.

We started with the house speciality Tarte Flambe originates from Alsace, France. Alsace is a region located at the German border. Tarte Flambée has a thinly rolled yeast free base spread with flavoursome fromage blanc (fresh cheese) and scattered with various ingredients. We selected the Strasbourgeoise - German sausage, onion and sauerkraut.

For mains we each chose one of their salads - I chose the Salade Croisette - Warm roasted pumpkin and beetroot salad with rocket, goat’s cheese, pine nuts and honey-lemon dressing and my China buddies selected the Salade Méditerranéenne - Spiced chicken salad with rocket, artichoke, olive, capsicum and mint yoghurt. They each arrived at the table on an enormous white plate and looked sensational. My salad had large chunks of roasted pumpkin and beetroot, a massive dollop of goats cheese and a honey lemon dressing drizzled over the rocket. It was just perfect for this warm afternoon and I enjoyed every mouthful.

We were enjoying the afternoon sun and ordered coffees to finish off. Maitre Karl is relaxed and perfect for a lazy long lunch (although the wooden chairs aren't that comfortable after a while).

Maitre Karl - 197 High Street, Willoughby - (02) 9958 1110

http://www.maitrekarl.com.au/

Ottoman Cuisine, Hickson Rd, Dawes Point

Ottoman Cuisine, Hickson Rd, Dawes Point
Friday 4 May, 2007

I never thought this day would come! Having been a fan of Ottoman during my Canberra years I was absolutely thrilled to learn they were planning to venture north and open in Sydney.

Ottoman is the highly awarded Turkish that has called Canberra its home for over 12 years. Once located in Manuka it moved across to Barton in recent years in to a purpose built mecca. It's not surprising that the Sydney venue is impressive. Owner/ chef, Serif Kaya, has reportedly spent $5 million fitting it out, including $150,000 on feature lights. Wow!

Ottoman Cuisine is located near the Sebel Pier One, just a hop, skip and a jump from my favourite tapas joint, Firefly and an easy walk from the Sydney Theatre and Wharf theatres. Tonight, we were off to see 'Self Esteem' the Brendan Cowell play for the Sydney Wharf2Loud.

We arrived at Ottoman a little early to have drinks and walked into a foyer type area that included a bar, impressive wine storage and the entrance to the kitchen. Was this the right entrance? We entered a little further and found a sweeping corner with panelled wood that curved around into the main dining space. A staff member approached and informed us that they do not open to 6.30pm so we could return then. She also muddled her way through an explanation about re-setting the tables from lunch etc but quite frankly it was not a good start.

We wandered over to the Sebel Pier One for drinks and perched ourselves in the front bar with a fabulous twelve square metre floodlit glass floor that goes straight through the Harbour. It's a little disconcerting to walk over at first. We ordered a bottle of wine and sat back enjoying the atmosphere and watching the conference delegates from 'Total Tools' - seriously!

At 6.30pm we returned to Ottoman for attempt #2. On the way in we watched a group leave...........from lunch. They had clearly had a sensational long lunch so we took the opportunity to ask them what they enjoyed. The overwhelming response was the duck and I think if we had made the offer they would have turned around and come back inside with us to kick on.

We entered the dining space and were shown to our table by a staff member that clearly wanted to be somewhere else, he tried to be funny but it came out as insincere and inappropriate. The dining room is large with 2 private dining areas that can be sectioned from the main room. The facilities are located upstairs which can pose a problem after enjoying a few drinks.

Shortly afterwards a waiter arrived at our table who was happy to share with us that the restaurant has been open for 2 months and he had travelled with 3 staff (including the owner) from Canberra to set up the operation here. He clearly knew his stuff and was a great advocate for the Ottoman experience ( I wish I remembered his name because he deserves recognition). As we glanced over the menu he returned and offered to design a 5 course tasting menu for us. Brilliant. Off the top of his head he rattled off a few dishes (including the duck) and gained our approval. I love that - the tasting menu would allow us to try a range of dishes:

- Pide bread: baked on premises (deliciously soft and warm - great for soaking up the sauces from the other dishes)
- Kral balak: lemon cured kingfish served with fresh pickled beetroot salad (light and fresh explosion of flavours - lemon and beetroot is a great pairing)
- Kabak: zucchini flowers served with yoghurt and dill sauce (the lightest, crispy batter and the best goats cheese)
- Karides: king prawns with shitake mushrooms & spinach, served with lemon sauce (the lemon sauce here was a standout - I could have eaten a plate of these)
- Salmon dolma: fresh atlantic salmon rolls of cray, prawns & fish; wrapped in vine-leaves, lightly battered served with a savory piquant sauce (the lightest, crispy batter and tender salmon)
- Marinated veal rolls in a crispy outer shell drizzled with yoghurt (minced veal that oozed out of the rolls after one mouthful)
- Ordek: oven roasted confit of duck served crisp on mash with aromatic juniper-berry jus (probably the best duck I have ever eaten - I will return for this)

We enjoyed every mouthful and became so caught up with the food and company that we didn't even realise the restaurant had filled to capacity with a few 'famous' faces too (Bob Hawke & Blanche d'Alpuget and Charlie Brown & Danny Avidan). We didn't want the experience to end and couldn't go past dessert:

- Chocolate slice: lindt chocolate with biscuit center with home-made raspberry ice-cream (if you love Cherry Ripes this is the dessert for you)
- Crème brulee: rich custard with burnt toffee on top (creamy and rich)
- Revani: moist semolina & orange cake with orange segments & sauce (the sauce had soaked through the whole cake so was an orange, syrupy cake)

For $100 per head (including drinks) we had a sensational dinner that was cut short as we had to leave for our play. If we weren't seeing the play we would have stayed on. This is a great experience...........make your reservation today.

Ottoman Cuisine - Pier 2/13 Hickson Rd, Dawes Point - (02) 9252 0054

http://www.ottomancuisine.com.au/.